The rebirth of a 1990 fzr1000

[bunk]

Ive had a few awesome barn finds in my life, and my most recent one was the best score of motorcycles in my life. The owner raced mini sprint dirt cars that use motorcycle engines and he had a couple fzr1000's, in parts at least. The most complete one was a black 90, ive always loved this livery. The problem was it hit something straight on going very fast, the forks were bent soo far back that they destroyed the headers and oil cooler. And in collateral damage broke a oil cooler line off the pan. Here it is right after getting home, in a corner of my trailer. Little did i know it would sit there for 5 years.



I started taking inventory of hard to find parts i would need and bit by bit started gathering them. I knew i wouldnt be able to work on the bike for awhile as i had other life plans. I Got all the body panels, a clean usd front and a unknown condition complete 1991 fzr1k and put all of it into my trailer in summer of '22 and parked it in a storage lot. While i drove around the southern usa in a rv for a year to find a new place to live, as well as ride cool roads on my fz1 or rgv250. After i got my house, the very last thing out of the trailer was the black 90. I put new stem bearings on the clean usd front and rolled it into the garage. After i removed the rear caliper cause it was seized.

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To recoupe some build cost i sold off the 91 body work, i got this bike praying the engine is good. It also has the correct color rims for my bike, but they are oxidized pretty good. Hopefully they did a jet kit when they did the slip on.



Current state of the 90. I had a key made for the ignition, unfortunately it doesnt work the gas cap. Nor did it have the seat cylinder. Ive struck out for years trying to find a set. The tank i got with it had a deep zig zag scratch in it, but it held gas. I started looking for tanks worldwide, and within a week found one in better shape for $107 shipped. Unreal. It has a nice dent that should be easily removed.




Its been off the road awhile...and the brake light, ive yet to see one for sale in the states.



So now i have the 91 on the lift as i prep to start it, on a budget to see if its worthy to put in the 90. I also have another 89 engine, but its condition is unknown and i would need a oil cooler. If push comes to shove, i have 3 engines to make one. I'll figure something out.


Thats a full garage!

[Nick]

Hi Bunk,

Good to see that the Exup project is underway. You used two of my favourite phrases/words when restoring vintage vehicles. 'Figure it out' and Budget'. It makes the end result far more satisfying, though can be exasperating at the time, for me anyway.
I had a quick look on ebay (UK), no rear lenses at the moment but looking at completed listings you would be paying between $30-35 plus shipping to Texas. Pricey if you ask me, but in this country driving around with one in the condition yours is would be an offence, and you'd end up having to replace it anyway. With regards to postage, the ebay Global shipping program seems very pricey. If you wanted to purchase from the UK, i'm sure I could get it to you and save you a few bucks. The offer's there. In the meantime a temporary repair seems best.

I see the 'Slabby' in one of your photo's. Did you get it up and running?

Finally, how's the a/c holding up?

[bunk]

Hi Bunk,

Good to see that the Exup project is underway. You used two of my favourite phrases/words when restoring vintage vehicles. 'Figure it out' and Budget'. It makes the end result far more satisfying, though can be exasperating at the time, for me anyway.
I had a quick look on ebay (UK), no rear lenses at the moment but looking at completed listings you would be paying between $30-35 plus shipping to Texas. Pricey if you ask me, but in this country driving around with one in the condition yours is would be an offence, and you'd end up having to replace it anyway. With regards to postage, the ebay Global shipping program seems very pricey. If you wanted to purchase from the UK, i'm sure I could get it to you and save you a few bucks. The offer's there. In the meantime a temporary repair seems best.

I see the 'Slabby' in one of your photo's. Did you get it up and running?

Finally, how's the a/c holding up?

The only rear lense ive found was in the UK. Im very used to buying parts from over sea's so if it comes to that i wouldnt mind.

The slabby is running/insured and ready to go. Ive found busa brake master cylinders are a little subpar in the travel dept so im shopping for a r1 master currently. I am also looking for a busa clutch master as the stocker has a horrible feeling switch that i fear will leave me stranded. Its seating position is perfect for me.

House a/c is golden, yesterday i got the 18,000 btu 220v ac unit prepped for install in the garage. My timing sucks as the temps dropped to the high 80's as summer is making way for fall.

Im hoping to have the 90 done by the end of the year, i dont know if thats possible but its a goal at any rate. Off the top of my head it will need a carb rebuild, fuel filter and pump, r1 master(my favorite obviously), rear caliper rebuild, tires, rear view mirrors, windscreen and the lock situation remedied. I got parts to trade if anyone can help.

[Nick]

There's a lens in Wales for around $22 or best offer with free postage to me. Looks in very good condition as well. The ebay item number is 335085434523. As for a screen 'nuggit' did have a black one for sale at the tail end of 2022, just before the site went down. Might be worth sending a message. As for the other bits post in the classifieds, you never know what other members have squirrelled away, and it costs you nothing. Well within budget.

I have used a Chinese carb rebuild kit on my Vmax. The only problem was the diaphragms were made of a slightly thicker rubber than the original Yamaha items. Unless you change all 4 at the same time it is a bit trickier to sync the carbs and they might not be as close as you like on the test equipment. I only needed to change one, though it was impossible to tell anything was amiss when riding so i'm guessing all the other items that I changed were fine. I would have no hesitation in buying another kit. Keenly priced too. May be of help to you.

Glad to hear that the A/C is working well despite the changing of the seasons. Now you just need a 18,000 BTU heating system. Ho Ho! Does Texas experience any sub zero temperatures? I'm guessing you have a step up converter to increase your voltage to the required supply.

[nugget]

As for a screen 'nuggit' did have a black one for sale at the tail end of 2022, just before the site went down. Might be worth sending a message.

Hi Nick & Bunk. It wasn't a black screen, but an original clear one that I sold. That went over to the US.

As for Carb seal kits. Get them from here.

https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZR1000_89-95.html

[bunk]

As for a screen 'nuggit' did have a black one for sale at the tail end of 2022, just before the site went down. Might be worth sending a message.

Hi Nick & Bunk. It wasn't a black screen, but an original clear one that I sold. That went over to the US.

As for Carb seal kits. Get them from here.

https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZR1000_89-95.html

I was adventuring around the site the other day and found the link to those carb kits. Probably the most appealing approach to carbs kits ive seen.

I tried turning over the 91 today, well i learned theres no easy to way to do so. Is there a special socket that goes on the left side of the crank?

[Nick]

Hi Bunk,

When I did the valves on mine last year I removed the spark plugs (to remove compression), put it into 5th gear and turned over the engine via the shallow nut on the front sprocket. worked fine as long as you keep lateral pressure upon the shallow nut. I cant remember which way I turned the nut though. I hope this is of some help to you.

[bunk]

Hi Bunk,

When I did the valves on mine last year I removed the spark plugs (to remove compression), put it into 5th gear and turned over the engine via the shallow nut on the front sprocket. worked fine as long as you keep lateral pressure upon the shallow nut. I cant remember which way I turned the nut though. I hope this is of some help to you.

LOL. I got a easy rule for you. Motorcycles dont have reverse (pay no mind to hefty hondas) so the sprocket only turns one direction.

If my mill was working i would have made a tool, but that project is down the road. I have to convert it to a vfd (variable frequency drive) so i can run it on single phase 220. I should probably start pricing that project.

[Nick]

Hi Bunk,

Mine has reverse in the shape of my two feet. Doesn't require any gas either.

Notwithstanding Honda's there are definitely no reverse gears in the Exup. I'm certain that I did rotate the engine backwards at one stage during the valve process though. Not very far, but definitely backwards. Not ideal for the cam chain tensioner, but no harm done. Can't think of anything that could stop it happening apart from a planetary gear starter clutch. Happy to be corrected on this.

VFD'S are pretty inexpensive nowadays. Just as well as i expect your mill gets regular use. There's always something extra to do.
Hofstadter's law springs to mind.

[bunk]

Well ol one eye got back up to the top of the priority list, so i took a bunch of pictures for later down the road as a insurance policy to know where stuff goes. I started taking a float bowl off to see how the carb guts looked and was bummed to see someone was in there previously and left half the bowl screws out.

I felt like a newb again.

2000 era fuel nearly turned into oil, i was surprised some didnt evaporate. There was no goo, so im going to remove the carbs, the bowls and throw em into the ultrasonic cleaner for 10 minutes. But that will have wait, i need to know if this engine is worthwhile, so i played in its old oil.



Absolutely nothing of concern in there, that was a relief.

So my plan is, drain the sump. i have a quart or 2 of motul engine oil in the preluber. I'll hook that up after i get the plugs out and have a look in the cylinders with a endoscope. Once the preluber is hooked up i'll rotate the engine a few times while its getting 10 psi of pressure. Once thats done i'll drain it and look it over. Then after payday i'll get oil/filter, plugs, a fuel filter and pump on the way. Carbs will be back on by then, the 15th. If it proves itself to run on all 4 i'll remove the carbs and do a proper going thru. Thats the plan anyway, always subject to change

[Stig]

Just for info, some sets of carbs came with only 2 screws in each float bowl

[bunk]

Just for info, some sets of carbs came with only 2 screws in each float bowl

All 3 of mine are. I got a chuckle out of that.

Im tearing things down and of course a spark plug lead came out of a plug boot. That made me wonder are there cop swaps common to fzr1k's?

[bunk]

Tried loosening the lower clamps on the carb boots, couldnt get all 4. Then tried the uppers, failed again. Currently loosening the allens that hold the boots to the head. This is harder than my slabby ! Oh and a tidbit i keep forgetting, the throttle shaft is seized so i cant rotate it for access to allens.

Having massive spares makes a great insurance policy, but there will be no damage done to anything for removal. I decided against buying a new fuel pump and try the 2 i have. Only buy whats necessary at this point.

[bunk]

Finally.



During the job I noticed what looks to be a small oil manifold that goes from the crankcase to cylinder head was super rusty, the loose engines was also rusty but the engine in the 90 looks mint. I think im going to use the carbs from the 90 instead of the 91's as well, they have had less miles and a much easier life than the 91's.



I was hoping to see jet kit in it, but will wait til after the ultrasonic to read numbers. Im also going to ditch to coolant circuit that runs thru the carbs. As of now im starting the engine with no cooling system. I dont know if its good.

Dont forget im a total newb to fzr's so if you see something or have advice i sure would appreciate the knowledge. Once the engine is out i am going to remove the cam cover and inspect the entire length of the cam chain. All external o-rings will be done as well as all coolant connections that use a o-ring.