1990 FZR 1000 starting fault/fuelling ?
1990 FZR 1000 starting fault/fuelling ?
Can anyone assist with a starting fault ?
I have a '90 3GM FZR1000
It starts fine on choke (fuel is low so reserve switch is selected), it will idle on choke and as soon as you crank the throttle, it dies
I have a '90 3GM FZR1000
It starts fine on choke (fuel is low so reserve switch is selected), it will idle on choke and as soon as you crank the throttle, it dies
thanks for responses
I'm thinking is it the digital ignitor box, as it appears ignition. As soon as it sees throttle input, cuts dead. Do the bikes have a throttle switch ?
The cars were fully serviced about a Year ago, I know how the fuel can contaminate, but before I rip them off the bike, just thinking its some kind of electronic issue
Will the bike run/idle if the ignitor box fails ?
I'm thinking is it the digital ignitor box, as it appears ignition. As soon as it sees throttle input, cuts dead. Do the bikes have a throttle switch ?
The cars were fully serviced about a Year ago, I know how the fuel can contaminate, but before I rip them off the bike, just thinking its some kind of electronic issue
Will the bike run/idle if the ignitor box fails ?
- pilninggas
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The FZR1000s dont have throttle switches or TPS so the ignitor cannot see throttle position.phfzr wrote:thanks for responses
I'm thinking is it the digital ignitor box, as it appears ignition. As soon as it sees throttle input, cuts dead. Do the bikes have a throttle switch ?
The cars were fully serviced about a Year ago, I know how the fuel can contaminate, but before I rip them off the bike, just thinking its some kind of electronic issue
Will the bike run/idle if the ignitor box fails ?
id be surprised if the bike would run at all with a duff ignitor - it isnt a complex item by most ecu standards.
if the bike has been stood then it might be that orifices for idle jet have stayed clear but the orifices [float jet?] have gummed up hence why it idles but wont throttle.
If you think it is ignition then replace plugs first before you go more expensive/more complex - plugs dont like getting repeated rich mixtures on them that isnt cleared off by riding. start with the simple stuff, not the complicated.
thats good information, guess I have to remove the carbspilninggas wrote:The FZR1000s dont have throttle switches or TPS so the ignitor cannot see throttle position.phfzr wrote:thanks for responses
I'm thinking is it the digital ignitor box, as it appears ignition. As soon as it sees throttle input, cuts dead. Do the bikes have a throttle switch ?
The cars were fully serviced about a Year ago, I know how the fuel can contaminate, but before I rip them off the bike, just thinking its some kind of electronic issue
Will the bike run/idle if the ignitor box fails ?
id be surprised if the bike would run at all with a duff ignitor - it isnt a complex item by most ecu standards.
if the bike has been stood then it might be that orifices for idle jet have stayed clear but the orifices [float jet?] have gummed up hence why it idles but wont throttle.
If you think it is ignition then replace plugs first before you go more expensive/more complex - plugs dont like getting repeated rich mixtures on them that isnt cleared off by riding. start with the simple stuff, not the complicated.
will keep everyone updated, but will be a few weeks before I get to it
If it's been stood with fuel in the carbs I'd bet it's the pilot circuit that's blocked
When I used to leave mine stood over winter prior to using fuel stabilizer it wouldn't pick up on revs from tickover. I'd have to blip the hell out of it and it'd fart n back fire til the revs started to pick up. Few minutes later it would tick over ok but low down acceleration or a regular tickover was impossible
We cleaned the carbs to a full strip with the help of Nuggitt and Roadrunner and it was sorted
When I used to leave mine stood over winter prior to using fuel stabilizer it wouldn't pick up on revs from tickover. I'd have to blip the hell out of it and it'd fart n back fire til the revs started to pick up. Few minutes later it would tick over ok but low down acceleration or a regular tickover was impossible
We cleaned the carbs to a full strip with the help of Nuggitt and Roadrunner and it was sorted
AKA Bald headed b'stard
While you're ordering....
Get yourself one of these. It saves all the hassle of having to faff about with the stop valve under the tank etc. All you have to do if you want to remove the tank is turn it off and remove the left clip and pull the pipe off the fitting. Job done. It also comes in handy when/if you take the bike off the road in the winter. Turn the stop off and run the bike till all the float bowls are empty and it helps to stop the old fuel gumming up all the jets while its stood idle for months.
PET COCK
You'll need 2 clips for it. I'll have a look in the garage later to see if I have any spare.
I'll send you a photo of mine when I dig it out
Here you are.
Get yourself one of these. It saves all the hassle of having to faff about with the stop valve under the tank etc. All you have to do if you want to remove the tank is turn it off and remove the left clip and pull the pipe off the fitting. Job done. It also comes in handy when/if you take the bike off the road in the winter. Turn the stop off and run the bike till all the float bowls are empty and it helps to stop the old fuel gumming up all the jets while its stood idle for months.
PET COCK
You'll need 2 clips for it. I'll have a look in the garage later to see if I have any spare.
I'll send you a photo of mine when I dig it out
Here you are.
Bit of advice. Buy a good bed and a good pair of shoes, because if you aren't in one you'll be in the other.
- Teego
- More Rabbit Than Sainsbury's
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- Location: On the road again. Distance is the drug.
That's a great mod John. So simple with lateral thinking. Wish I had that on my Euroblasts. Middle of nowhere. Lift tank. Detach cowl. Find screwdriver. Close valve. Sort whatever. Lower tank. Replace screwdiver. Fit cowl. Fire up. Off we go. Phut Phut. Detach cowl. Find screwdriver. Lift tank. Open valve. Lower tank. Replace screwdriver. Fit cowl. Cough, cough, cough, Roar.nuggitt wrote:
Get yourself one of these. It saves all the hassle of having to faff about with the stop valve under the tank etc. All you have to do if you want to remove the tank is turn it off and remove the left clip and pull the pipe off the fitting. Job done. It also comes in handy when/if you take the bike off the road in the winter. Turn the stop off and run the bike till all the float bowls are empty and it helps to stop the old fuel gumming up all the jets while its stood idle for months.
Where's everyone gone? Oh FFS.
Keep on keepin' on.
just to update this thread, I stripped the carbs and as Stig suggested, pilot jets blocked solid
I've managed to strip everything down, but could not get the pilot air jets out, was worried about breaking the tangs, they are pretty tight
Any hints/tips for removal, I've sprayed some lube in there and will let them soak
are jets still available to buy new ?, a couple of them look like they had historic damage, and while its all apart, could replace....
I've managed to strip everything down, but could not get the pilot air jets out, was worried about breaking the tangs, they are pretty tight
Any hints/tips for removal, I've sprayed some lube in there and will let them soak
are jets still available to buy new ?, a couple of them look like they had historic damage, and while its all apart, could replace....