Repair/Restoration Questions (Photo Request)

[kboehringer]

Fellow FZR Friends,

I have a couple questions I need some help with as I proceed with repairs. As mentioned in the general discussion forum, this is a 1992 FZR1000.

ExUp Exhaust:
The previous owner removed the factory exhaust and discarded it. I have acquired a replacement header pipe with ExUp Valve. The Servo Motor is still installed in the bike and is active. I do not have the actuator CABLES and I believe there must be another missing cable mount that should be in the area of the Servo Motor for the ends of the cables to mount to? I can find no reference to this and I can not find it on any of the drawings (partzilla.com). I have found used cables for about $20 but the OEM cables are still available for $40/each. I will likely purchase new. Can someone post a photo of the mounting within the frame at the servo motor so I can see what else is missing? Also, any photo that shows the PROPER routing of the cables would be appreciated.

Radiator:
I purchased a "Stone Guard" for the radiator as I assumed it was missing. When I installed I found that it was much too short and the upper mounting tabs do not exist on this radiator. Was the Stone guard used on 1992 models? It appears the radiator was enlarged on this bike over previous years?


Obviously very short......

Rear Seat "COWL"?
I like the look of the rear seat cover/cowl on the bikes I've seen. Was this on the 1992 from the factory or was this an option? I'm having trouble finding one. It appears this is referred to as a "Cowl" in Europe. Is there another term/name I should be searching for?

Fuel Switch:
I ordered a factory owner's manual assuming it would explain the operation of the fuel switch. I have a Yamaha service manual and an aftermarket manual and neither explains the purpose/procedure for this switch. I read somewhere that when the fuel gets below the sensor it turns the pump off requiring the rider to switch to reserve. That would seem like a correct use since there is no fuel level indicator or gauge on the instruments. Is this the correct function of this switch?

Front Fork Seals/Recondition:
I recently installed a new tire on the front without the benefit of a wheel lift. It was a pretty ugly and ill advised procedure I used to accomplish the tire change with; a couple muscular neighbors, a floor jack, two jack stands (under fork bottoms) and a lot of luck..... I WILL PURCHASE A FORK LIFT DEVICE.

Even with a fork lifting device I will be unable to remove the forks and service them. I assume I will need to hoist or lift the bike from the frame or the upper fork tree. How are you accomplishing this chore? I am use to cruisers and non-sport bikes which all include a center stand. Fork repairs are easy on those!

Rear Wheel Lift:
I purchased a used wheel lift for the rear but this machine is not set-up for "SPOOLS" used on the newer bikes. I modified the lift and it works well but will not be useful for another machine following my modifications. Interested in seeing how others use a wheel lift on the rear.


I cut off the "V" areas normally used to press up on spools. Heat shrink rubber was used to try to reduce the slippery metal to metal contact. The remaining area of the "V" hook plate engages the inside of the swingarm to avoid the bike sliding to either side.

Just wondering what you did? As you can see the tire is crap and I can not drive until it is replaced.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Unfortunately, I am sure there will be many more questions as I proceed with this restoration.

Sincerely,

[nugget]

I don't know if I'm going to be any help with your questions because I have the 90 Exup and I think they changed the postion of the servo motor on your model??? I could be corrected.

I'm having a few problems with my photo programme so I can't put arrows where I need to show you.

The route for the cables go between the swingarm and the engine block. They can be a pig to get through the gap but they will go after a lot of cursing though.

Here's a few photos for you. It might help or not.

[nugget]

Once again I'm not 100% sure on this but I seem to think the RU models have a slightly curved radiator to my model.

Here's a photo of my scruffy looking radiator showing where the mounting bolts go.

[nugget]

As for seat cowl. You could try a seat hump but usually they are refered as seat cowls in Europe.

They come up quite often on the UK Ebay site. They're not as rare as the 89/90 models. You've more chance of finding a virgin on a unicorn.

[nugget]

I highly recommend one of these abba stands. Make sure you get the right fitting kit for your bike.

CLICK HERE FOR FITTING KIT.

[Stig]

The cable ends terminate at the exhaust end in a bracket that fits to the valve cover. Sure they can be bought cheaper than that from a main dealer so make sure first
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2652568884

The cable routing can be found in the service books in the tech section on our main site (link at to of the home page)

The radiator guard is off an earlier model where there's a separate oil cooler. The rad is therefore shorter hence the shorter guard. Thaw later RU had a combined set up

Several ideas for supporting the rear. I have a homemade ABba style stand that supports off the swing arm pivot area. Plans on site of how to make one if your handy. Alt I've welded bobbin mounts to the underside of my swing arm (it was to get polished anyway)
Previously I had U shaped cups on a paddock stand that sat under the swing arms

[Stig]

Fuel reserve switch works off a thermistor in the tank. As fuel drops the thermistor heats up and cuts power to the pump requiring the reserve switch to be pressed

[nugget]

I have a certain way of getting the front forks out but it's not for the faint hearted. I've done it this way for many years and never had a problem.

I put the bike on the side stand and pull the bars on a right lock and pull back on the bars using the side stand as a pivot and my lovely assistant (the wife) slides some blocks of wood under the exhaust headers and I slowly let the bike rest on the blocks of wood. As you can see the wheel is well off the floor to get the wheel out and plenty of room to slide the forks out.

Before I do this I loosen all of the bolts on everything that I'm going to take out which makes it a lot easier than doing it later and saves it rocking about on the blocks. After I've finished doing whatever I slightly nip all the bolts back up and when the bike is back on the ground I tighten everything back up nice and tight.

[nugget]

You may already know this. Here's a couple of photos of the reserve switch.

[kboehringer]

Gentlemen,
Thank you all for the great responses.

RE: ExUp Valve
It is clear that Nuggit's '90 is much different than my '92. My servo is located inside the right side of the frame basically behind cylinder #4 (see photo). I've decided to buy the new cables listed for the '92 as there is likely some differences per year and I may end up with cables too short or too long for my bike.



Routing of these cables is also going to be very different from Nuggit's bike. I can't believe they really turn that cable in such a tight radius in mine but I guess they do. Again, I wouldn't be surprised if there is another guide or bracket missing up on the backside of my engine. I will be checking the TECHNICAL SECTION tonight as suggested.

I have the bracket and cover for the exhaust end hook-up.

And I managed to get all the broken bolts out with a LOT OF HEAT as suggested. Only one had to be drilled out. I'll buy the OEM bolts but for the moment have lower grade bolts installed to put everything together.

RE: Fuel Switch:
Thank you for the clarification. I read somewhere online (not an FZR site) that this was the procedure.

RE: Bike Stands:
I really like that swingarm pivot stand. One of those is in my near future.
I would say the block of wood trick looks good, but much better with a stock exhaust. My current aftermarket D&D seems pretty thin as most of the aftermarket units are whereas the stock cast and extremely thick down pipes would likely fair much better to that wood block method. I fear if I try that with my aftermarket unit it will dent badly.

RE: Radiator Guard:
The guard I have would certainly fit Nuggit's bike nicely. Apparently they included the engine oil cooler within the '92 radiator (like an automatic transmission cooler on a car) and made the thing bigger vertically. There is no stone guard listed for the '92 on the OEM parts drawings. The seller (evil-bay as we call it) indicated this was from a '92..... GUESS NOT!

RE: NEW ROTOR - New Topic:
Today, I received my new rotor from China, it is SLIGHTLY different than the OEM as the holes are drilled a LITTLE different. Likely, only those on this site would recognize the mild difference. I believe I paid ~$40 (31.94 pounds) for this and it arrived in less than 2 weeks. I'll probably post this in the parts review section as a good deal.





I took a gamble and made one last ride around my neighborhood on this noisy beast. Decided to park the bike until I can mount the new tire and properly balance it. The old tire/rim had NO weights indicating it was perfect (extremely unlikely) or it was never properly balanced. I mount and balance all my own bike tires as I have had great difficulty with Yamaha dealers; tires mounted in the wrong direction, tires in TT (tube type) when I specified tubeless, etc. I purchased a balance stand and some good Pro-Motion bead breaker tire irons and it's just easier and cheaper to do it myself and do it correctly!


Just waiting on a new tire....

P.S. My wife nearly peed her pants reading Nuggit's jokes....."That's when the fight started"

[nugget]

Here you are Kurt.

MAKING CABLES

You'll need some nipples. Go for the 7.5mm x 5.5mm

Get your cables from any cyclist shop.

NIPPLES

[kboehringer]

Have you still got the internet link for the rear disc?

REAR DISC

[nugget]

Thank you Kurt.

I've put that link somewhere safe. I only hope I can remember where I put it in a years time. It's my age you know.

[kboehringer]

FZR Friends,
Finally, I can take a ride and feel it is safe to do so.... I can now venture a little further than around the neighborhood without fear a 19 year old tire will shred when I enter a tight corner.

The rear tire arrived today from back order and it was quickly installed and balanced with the addition of a new rear rotor. Only required 1/4 oz. to achieve perfect balance.



There are obviously MANY other items to attend to but the brakes work properly and the tires are good. Hopefully, I can take it for a REAL ride in the next day or two.

[nugget]

It's starting to look very nice Kurt and you can't beat the feeling of having a brand new pair of boots fitted.