stalling

Post by **Stig** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 8:58 pm

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamah ... 23-00.html

shows what other models share same part

willandrip · Post by **willandrip** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:00 pm

Cheers Nuggit; I actually went back to his first post.....he a owns a T ace
not a fzr so X reference ing was not a good idea from me as its not required.

I also looked at other vendors and it appears that the t/ace bolt is just a plain set screw unit with a duel tool fitment.(hex head with X for screwdriver)

If this is the case ...any generic "bolt" that thread and length would suffice.

Post by **nugget** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:09 pm

Bugger!! I forgot it was a thunderace.

Post by **Stig** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:36 pm

nuggitt wrote:Bugger!! I forgot it was a thunderace.

me too

willandrip · Post by **willandrip** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:41 pm

Stig wrote:
nuggitt wrote:Bugger!! I forgot it was a thunderace.
me too

Your to blame; letting that new fangled stuff on here in the first place.

Post by **nugget** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:45 pm

I wondered off the yellow brick road a bit.

Post by **Stig** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:10 pm

willandrip wrote: Your to blame; letting that new fangled stuff on here in the first place.

its all Yodas fault

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:15 am

new clutch spring bolts on the way.

I managed to get a set of used carb rubbers off ebay for 20 quid inc postage which should be here tomorrow so hopefully that will be the high idle problem solved while I continue to do battle with the clutch.

Replacing carb rubbers should be something that even I can do without ballsing it up!!!!!!!!

Post by **nugget** » Wed Jul 08, 2015 11:28 am

I don't want to pee on your bonfire thunder tax BUT you've just bought some used carb rubbers. Did you ask the seller if there's any cracks In them? If there is any cracks you've wasted your money. It will suck air in cause you more headaches.

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Wed Jul 08, 2015 12:23 pm

the seller they were in good condition with no cracks. I would have bought new, but I coukdnt find anyone selling them and I couldnt get any definitive answers on carb rubbers from other models that might fit.

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Mon Jul 13, 2015 2:14 pm

ok chaps. How do I get the remains of the clutch spring bolt out?

I do have a set of bolt extractors but I am not sure they will work in such a small space.

dustydes · Post by **dustydes** » Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:30 pm

Use a stud extractor or.

I think the holes go all the way through, if so drill from the back and screw may well come out as its turning in the same direction as the drill bit.

Or you could try drilling a hole and applying heat to casting then tap a screw driver that will fit hole into place and unscrewing.
Be careful not to snap the tip of the screwdriver off in hole. So only apply light turning force to see if it moves, dont twist too hard.

Good luck hope all goes well

willandrip · Post by **willandrip** » Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:50 pm

First ; get rags and pack the area to prevent ingress of drill firings and metal chips.

Make exactly sure you centrepunch the exact centre of the broken bolt.

Use a good quality drill bit and slow speed with lubrication to drill a pilot
down the broken stud. 3-4mm pilot is usual.

Enlarge the pilot to 5mm using the same technique.

I am going against the norm now but engineering moves on.

Under NO circumstances use an easyout (reverse direction extractor).
They are far too brittle and if snapped in situ ;you are in a world of pain/expense.
Instead use a star or torx screwdriver bit slightly larger than the 5mm drilling gently tapped (hammered) into the broken thread.
Do NOT bash in a massively oversize bit; you only require a slight grip on the snapped thread.
Heat the outer of the boss where the stud is snapped into with a heatgun or wifes hairdryer.
You only need to expand the alloy a tiny amount if at all.
Now use something to turn out the torx bit including the broken thread.
I am fortunate in having T bar sets etc but an ordinary screw driver handle type would suffice.

If you had access to l/h drill bits it would come straight out as you drill the
broken thread, without requiring tools to gain a purchase.
It took longer to type this than it would take to perform the extraction, it really is that easy.

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Thu Jul 16, 2015 6:08 pm

ok chaps. Got the offending sheared bolt out and changed the carb rubbers. I checked the replacement rubbers and althouh they are used, I couldnt see and splits or cracks.

thing is I am now back to square one. Tick over is still high and the idle adjustment screw doesnt change it. Also when I drop it into gear it stalls.

I am going to do an oil change tomorrow and take it from there.

willandrip · Post by **willandrip** » Thu Jul 16, 2015 6:24 pm

Is the reassembled clutch disengaging the transmission. ?

If so you have NOT bypassed the sidestand and clutch safety circuits correctly.

The high idle could be;

Insufficient slack in throttle cable.
Air screw setting far too lean
Carb synchronisation screws so badly set that one or more carb butterflies are still open when the throttle idle screw is fully out.

Which method did you use to remove the broken clutch screw. ?

It is a good oil change that can cure mechanical issues !