Vivian - Banner's streetfighter experiment.

[BONLY1]

Lovely engine mounting there - wish I'd seen your pics before I'd started my rebuild! You may have trouble with that number plate for the mot though, looks a bit blurred to me, or is that my JD shotz too

[banner001]

made a soundproofing box for my air compressor, its damn loud, well over 100db, its a lot quieter now, i can hold a conversation whilst its turned on now, better for me and must be better for the neighbours...


cut the necessary boards and attach polystyrene foam to add to the sound dampening, it all fits together nice and snug


cut some holes in the top piece to release heat and get air in


it actually fitted together really well - i know the 2 end pieces look longer than they should, i knew that they would be too long by about 5mm each, but i didnt think i could cut that thin a slice with my crappy saw, ill try again when i paint it, after taking this pis i also cut some slots in the bottom to send the air line and power line through, as well as aiding airflow


it really cuts down on the sound, must have halved it, am well happy to have done it all in a day

[banner001]

Mot was booked for saturday morning. Fired the bike up friday night and see loads of fuel coming out from left side. I take a look and its the number 3 float must be faulty so i change it and its all good. I wasnt here saturday morning so i give the bike to a friend to take to the mot. He sends me a txt later saying the bike was pissing fuel wo he didnt take it for mot. I get back and take it round the block, its now leaking from number 4 float overflow...2 out of 4 fuel floats were deffective. Ive also been told to wire in a bbrake light so thats all done now and ive disabled the blue wire so that the off/parking/on switch does not activate the rear light...i think im all good now for mot round 2, lets see if it can get further than the end of my street now :-)

[banner001]

MOT passed with no advisory's despite it having no lights, helps to know the MOT tester

now to run the engine in before the weather turns...

[banner001]

has it been so long?

bike has been getting run in when possible, minimal smoking now, a little on the overrun...not to bad though, and its not really "using" oil so thats all good

ive been trying to design a frame-mount for the new horn, headlamp, indicators and digital dash...but ive come to the conclusion that mounting them to the forks will be easier, ive found some that are adjustable and mean i can get some alternative bits water-jet cut if needed.
http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/5696 ... Two-Wheels

ive also taken the plunge and bought this...first "big" purchase for the bike:
http://www.acewell.co.uk/Acewell%20Spee ... full&id=43

i like the analog rpm needle and digital display...really like it in fact, it will look sweet on the bike

ive bought their air temperature sensor, water temp sensor, S3 hall sensor and M8a magnetic bolt and fork mount...should all be getting delivered end of feb/early march...cant wait!

then gotta make a small bracket for the horn to mount to the frame, and im gonna make a bracket that goes inbetween the frame and the ignition that will hold the dash on, so everything but the horn will rotate.

am a happy banner

[Stig]

I say...I really do like that clock/rev counter

[undeadhairy]

I argee stig its very very nice. But does it actually read the fuel as wel banner?

[banner001]

it will read fuel when i stick one of these through the bottom of the fuel tank
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vd ... 011000260g

that length is probably wrong, ill buy one properly for the correct length...it will need modifying with some holes drilled in at the bottom of the tube to allow fuel to enter, im currently on the hunt for someone who can fit countersunk rivnuts...failing that i will get a thick flange welded to the bottom of the tank that has been drilled/tapped so that i can screw the fuel sender in place.

a bit of petrol-resistant rubber for a gasket and i will be sorted!

[Stig]

I have a rivnut gun

[joe111]

id go the other route weld a plate on like a lot of tanks are as standard.

[Stig]

You could try the theory on any old metal can...old oil can, even a saucepan from the tip maybe

[banner001]

id go the other route weld a plate on like a lot of tanks are as standard.

that was my other idea, 5mm steel plate would be fine, and probably a better seal, plus its not gonna give me the potential problems of rivnuts "turning"...

[banner001]

headlight/indicator brackets bought...i dont think dpd were able to deliver them, so i might go over to brum to collect them from the depot tonight, then ive got them and can fit them this weekend.

the fork clamps are in 2 halfs, then there is an adjustable plate so you can set the span (mine needs to be 165mm), once i get everything finalised i will probably make something custom...but for now its looking pretty decent, as the weather has not turned yet into snow ill be good to start going out at night time, ive also fitted temporary bar-end mirrors so i can now see behind me ok as well. ill rig up the front/rear indicators temporarily and check that all the wiring is fine.

i want to be able to make the wiring loom for the front of the bike when the clocks come end of feb/early march.

as for the clocks, ive decided to go for an electronic speed pickup, so that will use a magnetic bolt attached to the front wheel, ill calibrate it against my gps when it arrives so it will be within a few percent of true mph. acewell's 1/8 npt taper thread is ideal for fitting to the existing radiator, and removes (i think) the need for a ground wire as it has 2 wires going to it, next up is stick coils so i can ditch the stock heavy ones and also the plastic plate that they attach to, i can then route some cables between the radiator and frame, as opposed to through the frame...

[creedxup]

The plastic plate that the coils attach to is also designed to deflect hot air away from the air box to keep the inlet charge as cool as possible.

[banner001]

The plastic plate that the coils attach to is also designed to deflect hot air away from the air box to keep the inlet charge as cool as possible.

aye, but the bike will eventually run ram-air, so it will only be pulling in cool air from the front of the bike, ill also make the airbox larger so any heating will be dissipated over a larger area. its how my race bike runs and ive had no problems so far. i might try to keep the plate, but it will be a modified one, ill have to see once i finalize the front wiring loom.