Fangs "new" toy!!

[fang]

Nope you need a compressor of some sort, at least for an exup shock.

I hoped that theory might be the case, as this was how I took the spring off the Quadrant shock to repaint it blue, and thats how the ohlins came apart.





But on the Exup shock with the preload nut wound down as far as it will go the spring was still under tension, ( note bottom nut squashing rubber boot above compression adjuster)


hence the heath robinson affair using the car coil compressors

Unless he was on about an FZR 1000 Genesis shock, which may be possible looking at it as theres no damping adjuster in the way so the preload can be wound down further?

[nugget]

Thanks fang. I thought as much

[fang]

Todays installment

Managed to rebuild the shock without damaging the paint on the coil, so then painted the top half silver





Looked wrong so repainted it in the same colour as I was going to do the fork lowers, much better



Gave the forks a rub down then masked and sprayed them, in the sunshine.





After wrapping the shock with card, so as not to chip the paint, I set about installing it, but it wont fit????????????????

This is why

Original frame



New frame



Forgot to make the cut out for the reservoir hose

so a quick dismantle and out with the frame again to make the neccesary alterations!!





A quick blast of paint to prevent rust and it was re assemble time, AGAIN




But in my haste to put the shock together and back in the bike I forgot to reset the preload, so home made adjuster in hand i scrabbled on the floor to do so.




Couldn't resist putting bodywork on to get an idea of how it will look.





Will be better when the front wheels in and I can get her outside and get a better shot, but on the plus side I should be able to mount the shock reservoir behind the battery box.

[Stig]

lookin good. That colour for the forks looks VERY close to OEM ...real smart too to say its from a rattle can


oh, and did someone mention the shock mount earlier

[nugget]

You bet me to it stig.

I was going to bring it to fangs attention that it was mentioned by you earlier. Can't let him get away with that can we.

Ps and yes those fork look spot on mate.

[fang]

Right then todays little effort

Got out there and fabricated a couple of brackets for Yzfpauls build (I use the term "fabricate" with tongue very firmly in cheek)



My replacement adjuster bolts arrived to replace the nasty rusty ones in the swingarm



then decided to set about cleaning the front wheel as it was covered in fork oil from the knackered seals.



All the bolts came out easily, bar one




But it came out after a little "persuation" and the wheel and discs didn't come up too badly after plenty of soapy water and Halfords wheel cleaner (eats brake dust rather well, mild acid, just dont get it on polished ally!!!)
One disc clean, one not



At this point Lisa came home and came outside with a cuppa so I could carry on.

One in a million I tell ya though camera shy before you ask



So once the front wheel was in I thought I'd thread it through the gap in the garage to get her outside for some proper pics....

here goes the bandwidth

Arty shot !!









And finally, my ugly mug on it.




Need to replace the wheel bearings though as they are well FUBARed!!

[nugget]

And finally, my ugly mug on it.


Yep!! Can't argue with that my good man

[fang]

[yzfpaul]

must admit that is lookin seriously cool
cant wait for it to come together

[fang]

Thought I'd better set about splitting the engine from the original frame, so after removing the carbs I set about removing the wiring loom.




After taking plenty of photo's of all the associated connectors for referance she was out.



That'll be fun come the day of install

Next the rad had to come off, but as the engine is unmovable I drained it into an old litter tray (clean) trying not to get any on the carpet tiles



The engine has been converted to a water cooled oil filter housing ( no oil cooler needed) but this has meant a bodged rear oil line.
Think I'll see if I can replace this with something a little better.




Now I was stuck, as I cant lift the frame off on my own.

Had to wait till my beautiful, yet camera shy, assistant came home to give me a lift.



So here we are, engine and frame seperated.



Next on the list will be clean the engine and sort out replacement bolts for It.

Laters

[oldskoolexup]

lovin' the way it's coming together...can't wait to see the final install!

[fang]

lovin' the way it's coming together...can't wait to see the final install!

Cheers oldskool, that may be some way off yet, as will become evident.

Right managed to muscle the engine onto a trolley, that normally the welder is stored on, and got her outside for a bit of a clean.




Now that the engine is no longer supported by the engine rails I can remove them so I can replace the shitty rusted bolts with nice new stainless ones.




Only to discover the bolts are siezed in the engine!!




And when I say siezed I mean siezed, snapped my allen key in the process of trying to move them, couldn't find the bit that snapped off so that'll probably end up in my car tyre giving me a puncture.



So it looks like the next few days will be spent heating and soaking in WD40 to try and release them if not I'll try and drill them out, but am not looking forward to that prospect!!!!!

And just to add insult to injury the inlet rubbers are cracked so will also need replacing



Might be a while till the next update, depending on how the bolt situation goes.

Laters

[nugget]

Well good look with them matey.
I think there going to be a bit of a pig to get out. It's not the easiest place to get a drill bit in straight is it?

[joeboy]

You can always just wire brush them and put some hammerite on them and use them again, There still strong and will do the job.

I know this isnt ideal but if you are struggling with them and to save any damage to the ally case just use them again.

[fang]

Joeboy, yep I could use them again but the plank that installed these bolts cross threaded an M10 x 1.25 nut on a 1.5 bolt so they have to come out


Right I have just spent 3 hours this afternoon trying what I could.



Started on the right bolt (worst one) ground the burred bit of so I could fit a nut back on it.

And also drilled a couple of holes in the ally mounting lug so I could get WD40 to, hopefully, penetrate the hidden part of the bolt.



Tried the 2 nut approach but to no avail, wouldn't lock off, just screwed the thread off.........Result, No movement

Tried the heat then soak in wd40 then hit said nuts with lump hammer and drift........Result, No movement

Tried welding nuts on, two pronged attack, the heat would be better than my blowtorch, and It will overcome the thread issue above, .......Result, No movement

So,I cut the bolt off flush with a grinder and resigned myself to the long task of drilling it out.

Just about room for the chuck to clear the casing, slightly off centre but managed to get a 9mm hole that removed one side of the bolt down to 3/4 its depth and twatted it with a drift,whilst applying heat, as this way its effectively being pulled out rather than pushed through the mounting....Result, Movement, just a little, but movement none the less





Success





Not looking forward to doing the left hand side but it came out with just a swift clout and some heat, as I said the other one was worse.




So now I can replace all the crappy mounting bolts with nice new shiny stainless ones



Oh and I found the end of my allen key, it was 15 feet away from where I was working on the driveway on the garden, the other side of my car!?!?!?