compatible paddock stands

[MontePete]

Hello all, I see that there are no threaded holes to add swing arm spools on my 1990 FZR1000, are there any recommendations for a decent quality rear paddock stand (ideally with photos)? Also, for the front end if you have one that you like.

cheers,

Pete

[Stig]

I personally use an ABBA style stand that I made years ago. This allows both front and rear to be off the ground at the same time if required ( plans available on main site)
Only downside is you can’t remove swingarm but there’s an alternative support point of the footrest hanger bolts if you adapt the securing points

If you want separate stands for the front I’d go for a headstock stand that secures into the underside of the steering stem
For the rear you’d have to go for a traditional stand with cups that sit under the edge of the swingarm. Personally I had some babbin mounts welded to the underside of the swingarm as my arm was already marked when I bought the bike so I stripped it and polished it anyway

Hope this helps

[MontePete]

Thanks, I ended up borrowing a rear Trackside stand that does the job okay. I would not buy one myself as it seems on the cheaper side from a construction standpoint. So, the reason to raise the rear wheel is that I can hear a slight click with each rotation of the wheel (engine off, free rolling in neutral). I removed the rear brake caliper and then the chain, no change. It does go away though when I loosen up the rear axle nut so I'm thinking wheel bearings. They all feel good by hand whilst still installed, I did notice that the one inside the cush drive does have some axial play, the whole bearing that is moves a little in its pocket. And then the axle sleeve is not fitting tight against the ID of the bearings. I presume this axle sleeve is what can be used to transfer the force from the other end to push that bearing out and then use a long punch for the other side on the OD race.

Any thoughts on the noise?, is this common?

thanks,

Pete.

[nugget]

From what you’ve done. It does sound like a wheel bearing on the way out. I use an old engine mounting bolt. Put the hexagon end through the bearing hole till it touches the outer race of the bearing, and then knock the bearing out gently with a hammer, then do the other one the same way. Use the old bearings to use as a drift to knock the new ones in.

[MontePete]

Well I put it all back together, in doing so, I did notice that the axle nut was installed on the right side, the parts diagram shows it on the left, my other bikes are on the right and many that I saw on youtube videos. I did swap it to match parts diagram (so its now on the left side of the bike. After setting the drive chain slack and retorquing the nut, the noise went away?

Follow up question on the drive chain slack tolerance, my factory shop manual states 15 to 20mm which seems tighter than other bikes that I have owned. I did notice same variance, I know it should be set to match at the tightest spot on the chain, and that slack variance is unavoidable, but what variance is deemed acceptable?, 10, 15 mm when you check @ different spots along the chain or just 5mm?, 5mm sounds too small. My sprockets look good, the chain link distance measurement is within spec the and links cannot be pulled away from the rear sprocket.

Pete