01's Engine change
- plodder
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01's Engine change
Finally got round to dropping the engine out of 01 today.
It is posible to do an engine change on your own with the help of some mechanical mates
There we go... Nice 22K reshimmed RU motor in place:
Just needs a good clean-up now...
It is posible to do an engine change on your own with the help of some mechanical mates
There we go... Nice 22K reshimmed RU motor in place:
Just needs a good clean-up now...
Converted to pedal power. Now skinny as fook.
You can do it all by ya self, droppin out is easy although I wouldn't go as far you have m8 to get the motor out, just place a trolley jack underneath with then engine restin on a piece of wood - I made a wooden trolley the same size as the sump and it has 4 heavy duty casters on it.... I then use tie straps to hold it in place under the egine and supported by the trolley jack while i remove the engine bolts, then I remove the trolley jack, and once this is out the way I loosen each tie strap until engine rests on floor ontop of trolley. Turn the front wheel to the right and she will roll out.
I have managed to replace the motor on my own by doing the reverse by tilting the motor forward (whilts on the trolly) so the back comes up allowing me to insert the lower rear engine mount and then ratchet strap around front of engine and slowly pull it up so the upper rear engine mount comes into position and then I can do the front upper / lower mounts.
I have managed to replace the motor on my own by doing the reverse by tilting the motor forward (whilts on the trolly) so the back comes up allowing me to insert the lower rear engine mount and then ratchet strap around front of engine and slowly pull it up so the upper rear engine mount comes into position and then I can do the front upper / lower mounts.
Next stop 200mph
- plodder
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Yup. Back end out last and in first or it jams.
I use a wide board on 3 bricks and I lift the whole frame off and leave the engine sitting on the board, slide the engine across the board using 2 sacrificail planks and lift it off onto the floor.
Then bring in new engine and do the reverse... lower frame onto engine while tilted forward and get rear bolt in. Then keep lowering until front bolts go in. It needs a bit of rocking to get it all lined out but only took an hour to do once carbs & electrics were off.
I use a wide board on 3 bricks and I lift the whole frame off and leave the engine sitting on the board, slide the engine across the board using 2 sacrificail planks and lift it off onto the floor.
Then bring in new engine and do the reverse... lower frame onto engine while tilted forward and get rear bolt in. Then keep lowering until front bolts go in. It needs a bit of rocking to get it all lined out but only took an hour to do once carbs & electrics were off.
Converted to pedal power. Now skinny as fook.
- plodder
- More Rabbit Than Sainsbury's
- Posts: 3301
- Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:12 pm
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R and RU engines are the same except for the oil cooler. Besides, I've got a sound low-ish mileage RU motor for free from the red & white RU I broke.Rutz wrote:Thought you were putting faster r motor in
I'll keep the running gear off the R.
Jon had done something linking intakes but he wont tell me what it does. Must do something or why would he bother
Converted to pedal power. Now skinny as fook.
- plodder
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It's all coming together slowly.
Carbs, coils and electrics all back together.
Exup valve cleaned and regreased with "Nuclear grade" never seez grease . Headers painted with high temperature paint. Should get them fitted tonight and be able to spark it up.
I've got a big tin of this grease if anyone wants any I'll do 5ml in a little syringe for a fiver. I only used about 0.5ml. I'll use it on the actuator thingy as well and it should help to protect the cables from rubbing.
Carbs, coils and electrics all back together.
Exup valve cleaned and regreased with "Nuclear grade" never seez grease . Headers painted with high temperature paint. Should get them fitted tonight and be able to spark it up.
I've got a big tin of this grease if anyone wants any I'll do 5ml in a little syringe for a fiver. I only used about 0.5ml. I'll use it on the actuator thingy as well and it should help to protect the cables from rubbing.
Converted to pedal power. Now skinny as fook.
- plodder
- More Rabbit Than Sainsbury's
- Posts: 3301
- Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:12 pm
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Well, it's finally all back together and I've been out for a proper run after a few 1/2 mile shakedown tests during the last couple of days.
Bloody horrible and cold and greasy today . Got the back end well out of shape coming off a roundabout before I'd got it warmed up . Tyres were still freezing cold when I got home so warmed up is not really appropriate . Traffic is terrible as well... can't move for cagers and their shopping
Still, I saw 11000 in top so there's nowt wrong with the motor.
Still stuff to do 'cos it aint pulling smooth at 2-3K and the clutch is binding. I replaced the slave cylinder 'cos it was leaking so I'm pretty sure there's still a bit of air in there. Lots of sedinent in the clutch master cylinder when I opened it . Not any more .
Bloody horrible and cold and greasy today . Got the back end well out of shape coming off a roundabout before I'd got it warmed up . Tyres were still freezing cold when I got home so warmed up is not really appropriate . Traffic is terrible as well... can't move for cagers and their shopping
Still, I saw 11000 in top so there's nowt wrong with the motor.
Still stuff to do 'cos it aint pulling smooth at 2-3K and the clutch is binding. I replaced the slave cylinder 'cos it was leaking so I'm pretty sure there's still a bit of air in there. Lots of sedinent in the clutch master cylinder when I opened it . Not any more .
Converted to pedal power. Now skinny as fook.