Fangs "new" toy!!
I've tried those stainless nipples before, unfortunately, the angle is of the pointed sealing end is wrong and they leak,
On the original, the whole of the pointy end is used to make the seal, the new ones only contact the caliper in a small area.
On the original, the whole of the pointy end is used to make the seal, the new ones only contact the caliper in a small area.
1992 RU midnight blue, Wiseco 1070, 6 speed, r1 calipers, ducati discs , 157 bhp crank, Ohlins shock
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AAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHNNNOOcreedxup wrote:I've tried those stainless nipples before, unfortunately, the angle is of the pointed sealing end is wrong and they leak,
On the original, the whole of the pointy end is used to make the seal, the new ones only contact the caliper in a small area.
Keep on keepin' on.
ARSE, SHIT, BOLLOCKS and PISS from me too. I bought these a while ago but I haven't got round to fitting them yet. At least I have the right pitch but what chuffin good is that now??fang wrote:Arse, Shit, bollocks and piss!!!!
Hmmm, may have to see if I can alter the chamfer using my lathe (pedestal drill and file )
Will let you know how it goes!!
I know fang I'll pop mine in the post. You're pretty handy with a angle grinder.
Bit of advice. Buy a good bed and a good pair of shoes, because if you aren't in one you'll be in the other.
As long as mine don't leak your more than welcome to send them over.nuggitt wrote:
ARSE, SHIT, BOLLOCKS and PISS from me too. I bought these a while ago but I haven't got round to fitting them yet. At least I have the right pitch but what chuffin good is that now??
I know fang I'll pop mine in the post. You're pretty handy with a angle grinder.
Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever!!!
Right then, spent a little while in the garage yesterday seeing if i could "machine " the bleed nipples.
So, first of all I set about measuring the differance between the two.
Original
Replacement
Next I set up a jig to match the angle of the original nipple.
Then used a file held flat against the jig to "machine" the new chamfer.
Finished off with a bit of fine wet and dry
Jobs a good un
Original on left, "machined" in middle, non machined on right.
So now I have five correctly chamfered bleed nipples, will let you know if they leak once its all plumbed in.
So, first of all I set about measuring the differance between the two.
Original
Replacement
Next I set up a jig to match the angle of the original nipple.
Then used a file held flat against the jig to "machine" the new chamfer.
Finished off with a bit of fine wet and dry
Jobs a good un
Original on left, "machined" in middle, non machined on right.
So now I have five correctly chamfered bleed nipples, will let you know if they leak once its all plumbed in.
Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever!!!
I think the original nipple has a larger diameter between the taper and the thread and the taper goes down to a point.
I don't know whether it matters but it would probably be better to exactly duplicate the original shape/dimensions ???
I don't know whether it matters but it would probably be better to exactly duplicate the original shape/dimensions ???
1992 RU midnight blue, Wiseco 1070, 6 speed, r1 calipers, ducati discs , 157 bhp crank, Ohlins shock
Sorry, I meant that the original has a SMALLER diameter between the threads and taper.creedxup wrote:I think the original nipple has a larger diameter between the taper and the thread and the taper goes down to a point.
I don't know whether it matters but it would probably be better to exactly duplicate the original shape/dimensions ???
Oh for an edit function.
1992 RU midnight blue, Wiseco 1070, 6 speed, r1 calipers, ducati discs , 157 bhp crank, Ohlins shock
I think it should be ok, just been out and measured the relevant parts.
You are correct about the diameter, but the original is only .25 of a mm smaller, so in effect the replacement with a greater diameter will have a wider seat to seal with.
And I hear what your saying about the point of the nipple, oo er , but the hole in the slave cylinder, which is the same on the calipers, is 3mm and the taper, although not finishing in a point, tapers to a diameter smaller than the hole it has to seal, so there should be no issue with leaks, especially now that the angle of the taper matches.
If after all this they do leak I will obviously put the original ones back in and see if I can source some more stainless replacements, but hopefully that wont be neccesary.
You are correct about the diameter, but the original is only .25 of a mm smaller, so in effect the replacement with a greater diameter will have a wider seat to seal with.
And I hear what your saying about the point of the nipple, oo er , but the hole in the slave cylinder, which is the same on the calipers, is 3mm and the taper, although not finishing in a point, tapers to a diameter smaller than the hole it has to seal, so there should be no issue with leaks, especially now that the angle of the taper matches.
If after all this they do leak I will obviously put the original ones back in and see if I can source some more stainless replacements, but hopefully that wont be neccesary.
Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever!!!
As I have no provision for a temperature gauge I finally ordered the replacement radiator fan switch yesterday, Its a Subaru part (OEM part no 83052-GA040),(Intermotor part no 50455), exactly the same as the standard Yamaha item, but cuts the fan in at 95c instead of 105c
So with this on order I now had the added incentive to replace my inlet rubbers and check the o rings between the inlet manifolds and the head, as all the above mean draining the coolant!
So out with the cat litter tray (clean ) and away we go.
Coolant saved in plastic bottles I had saved from the recycle bin "just incase"
Off with the thermostat housing, as this prevents the removal of the inlet manifolds, and thus necessitates the need to droop the coolant.
Then off with the manifolds
All the O rings seemed OK, no obvious flat spots. So just to be sure I cleaned all the faces and O rings and rebuilt with a little gasket sealant on the faces to ensure a good seal.
Replaced the inlet rubbers and reassembled.
So with this done I then set about fitting the clutch hose and Speed Triple brake hoses.
Managed to get them on and routed in a way that they don't rub or get caught on anything they shouldn't, even jacked the front end off the ground to make sure there was adequate freeplay in the length just incase I ever manage to wheelie this once on the road (not very likely TBH, knee down = no problem, wheelies = hopeless )
Anyway, that was yesterdays update, so today I will see if my re-machined bleed nipples don't leak as I bleed up the front brake and clutch
So with this on order I now had the added incentive to replace my inlet rubbers and check the o rings between the inlet manifolds and the head, as all the above mean draining the coolant!
So out with the cat litter tray (clean ) and away we go.
Coolant saved in plastic bottles I had saved from the recycle bin "just incase"
Off with the thermostat housing, as this prevents the removal of the inlet manifolds, and thus necessitates the need to droop the coolant.
Then off with the manifolds
All the O rings seemed OK, no obvious flat spots. So just to be sure I cleaned all the faces and O rings and rebuilt with a little gasket sealant on the faces to ensure a good seal.
Replaced the inlet rubbers and reassembled.
So with this done I then set about fitting the clutch hose and Speed Triple brake hoses.
Managed to get them on and routed in a way that they don't rub or get caught on anything they shouldn't, even jacked the front end off the ground to make sure there was adequate freeplay in the length just incase I ever manage to wheelie this once on the road (not very likely TBH, knee down = no problem, wheelies = hopeless )
Anyway, that was yesterdays update, so today I will see if my re-machined bleed nipples don't leak as I bleed up the front brake and clutch
Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever!!!