Fangs "new" toy!!
I AM YOUR PERFORMING MONKEY
You mention the pipe needs shortening, I oblige.
To start with side by side comparison.
Then begins the process of drilling out rivets, removing inner, deciding upon a suitable length, and finally cutting carefully with a hacksaw.
Next the fun began as its not simply a case of cutting the inner to match.
The perforated inner pipe is fitted with a stainless collar that slides into a taper mounted to the exit spout.
and as the perforated tube has the same OD as the taper it wont fit, so it meant cutting the perforated tube to length and welding the two halves together.
Put a bit of wood down the bore to make sure they aren't welded on the piss only to discover another issue.
That being the inlet to the can is not inline with the outlet, not a problem when the can is full length as there is only a slight offset, BUT when shortened this offset becomes greater, requiring a dogleg to be put in the inner pipe!!
Doesn't look much and dont look pretty, but took an age to get right with cutting, tacking , test fitting, re adjusting, etc etc etc.
Then spent a good 30 mins with a flap wheel making sure the carbon sleeve is square so that the inlet collar has ample material for rivetting.
Anyhow, finished can comparison shot, just need to get some stainless rivets
then wheeled it outside for another few shots
Needs tucking in a bit more, willl see if I can tweek the link pipe, or may see if a high level one from an R1/6 will fit.
Also need to sort out a support bracket, but a definate improvement
You mention the pipe needs shortening, I oblige.
To start with side by side comparison.
Then begins the process of drilling out rivets, removing inner, deciding upon a suitable length, and finally cutting carefully with a hacksaw.
Next the fun began as its not simply a case of cutting the inner to match.
The perforated inner pipe is fitted with a stainless collar that slides into a taper mounted to the exit spout.
and as the perforated tube has the same OD as the taper it wont fit, so it meant cutting the perforated tube to length and welding the two halves together.
Put a bit of wood down the bore to make sure they aren't welded on the piss only to discover another issue.
That being the inlet to the can is not inline with the outlet, not a problem when the can is full length as there is only a slight offset, BUT when shortened this offset becomes greater, requiring a dogleg to be put in the inner pipe!!
Doesn't look much and dont look pretty, but took an age to get right with cutting, tacking , test fitting, re adjusting, etc etc etc.
Then spent a good 30 mins with a flap wheel making sure the carbon sleeve is square so that the inlet collar has ample material for rivetting.
Anyhow, finished can comparison shot, just need to get some stainless rivets
then wheeled it outside for another few shots
Needs tucking in a bit more, willl see if I can tweek the link pipe, or may see if a high level one from an R1/6 will fit.
Also need to sort out a support bracket, but a definate improvement
Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever!!!
- bikerman90
- Lap Record Holder
- Posts: 475
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:28 pm
- Location: Melton Mowbray
something like this anygood to ya? if i remember right its for a 5JJ model R1, i bought it for mine but never got round to fitting it
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
the tube i bought to extend the pillion pegs out.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
the tube i bought to extend the pillion pegs out.
Chuck Norris destroyed the periodic table, coz Chuck Norris only recognizes the element of surprise.
Got fed up looking at the bare throttle tube in the pics, so rooted out a matching grip and put it on.
Then had to re route the switchgear wiring as it was getting nipped between the tank and the forks, and this gave me the incentive to install the master cylinders.
However, because of the flat nature of the drag bars the end of the clutch M/C touches the top yoke, not really a problem but it limits the angle between bar and lever which at the position where its comfortable to ride, it makes fitting the fluid line akward.
(white towels hung so you can see the outline of the bike as it was blending into the black racking behind )
so after removing the lines and draining the fluid (for easier installation) I tried a few sets of other bars I have lying about.
Drag bars
Blue "Renthal wannabes", too much like cowhorns!!
Black high bars, too high and narrow
So I will perservere with the drag bars for now, as I like the look and feel when sat on the bike, although I do have another set of low rise bars coming.
The other option is to increase the height of my risers by 20mm, but I'll see how these other bars work out first.
Any way, after this I wheeled her outside to mull over exhaust mounting options!!
I mentioned earlier that it would be nice to mount the can up high, so out with the bungee cords to look at the options.
stumpy
pushed rearward
Not bad, but it fills the space between the seat unit and rear wheel, which I rather like, and it has the potential to melt my number plate once fitted!!
So I then looked at low slung options
Kicked up high
Following the line of the undertray
Flattened out
Of these I prefer the middle option, with maybe a bit shortened from the link pipe,
top pic actual, bottom pic photochopped
What do ya reckon????
Then had to re route the switchgear wiring as it was getting nipped between the tank and the forks, and this gave me the incentive to install the master cylinders.
However, because of the flat nature of the drag bars the end of the clutch M/C touches the top yoke, not really a problem but it limits the angle between bar and lever which at the position where its comfortable to ride, it makes fitting the fluid line akward.
(white towels hung so you can see the outline of the bike as it was blending into the black racking behind )
so after removing the lines and draining the fluid (for easier installation) I tried a few sets of other bars I have lying about.
Drag bars
Blue "Renthal wannabes", too much like cowhorns!!
Black high bars, too high and narrow
So I will perservere with the drag bars for now, as I like the look and feel when sat on the bike, although I do have another set of low rise bars coming.
The other option is to increase the height of my risers by 20mm, but I'll see how these other bars work out first.
Any way, after this I wheeled her outside to mull over exhaust mounting options!!
I mentioned earlier that it would be nice to mount the can up high, so out with the bungee cords to look at the options.
stumpy
pushed rearward
Not bad, but it fills the space between the seat unit and rear wheel, which I rather like, and it has the potential to melt my number plate once fitted!!
So I then looked at low slung options
Kicked up high
Following the line of the undertray
Flattened out
Of these I prefer the middle option, with maybe a bit shortened from the link pipe,
top pic actual, bottom pic photochopped
What do ya reckon????
Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever!!!
Yep, you could be right Teego, untilTeego wrote:Last pic is getting there. I think the tucked in look is the way to go. Also needs to look tucked from the rear.
TING
HUGE spanner in the works, this arrived, won it on Ebay 4 days ago when I was sussing out the exhaust location, purely for the link pipe.
Looks good, although in this orientation I cant use the rear brake or get my foot on the peg.
but with a little adaptation to the conection,ie adding a bit and altering the angle slightly, I could get it to work, but I may melt my numberplate and overheat the indicators, and does the link pipe look silly bowing out that far??
I'm in a quandry now
Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever!!!
unfortunately rotating it clockwise just results in the can being swivelled outboard of the bike.Teego wrote:Try rotating that link pipe clockwise. It might give you more clearance around the footpeg and bring the bend closer to the bike.
Its gonna take a bit of modding to get it right, but I have someone that can Tig weld stainless, so all I have to do is prepare it all.
Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever!!!
No worries Ron, it's not like I can claim copyright after posting it all on a public forum in great detail
There are a couple of other RU's on here that have been semi fightered. The subframe scallops always seem to be the difficult area when trying to fit a different seat unit, the R's seem to be an easier option, but hey we all like a challenge
There are a couple of other RU's on here that have been semi fightered. The subframe scallops always seem to be the difficult area when trying to fit a different seat unit, the R's seem to be an easier option, but hey we all like a challenge
Never Ever Bloody Anything Ever!!!
- Grim Reaper
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