stalling

willandrip · Post by **willandrip** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 11:31 am

No; just put them back.

Double check the cushion one if still fitted.

Scrub the steels with a nylon scourer to remove any friction material/glazing stuck to them

Soaking in oil is to prevent new plates burning up before the oil soaks into them.

They never needed soaking overnight...its an old wives tale.

Imagine motorcycle factories pre soaking 5.000 clutch plates per day,
just wouldn't happen.!

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 1:12 pm

cool. just what i wanted to hear!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dustydes · Post by **dustydes** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 4:47 pm

Ive had same problem on another bike.

Would start first time and tick over fine but as soon as in gear and let clutch out it would stall.
Turned out to be spark plug that couldn't take any load.

Good luck with the clutch hope you get sorted soon

Des

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 5:03 pm

after taking the clutch apart, I am sure the clutch was the problem as they were well stuck together. I have got them separated but cant put it all back together until tomorrow.

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 3:52 pm

i fukin hate this bike. Put the clutch back together and torqued up the spring bolts as per the manual. Started the bike up and put it into 1st and nothing changed when I leg the clutch out. it continuex idling as if in neutral. This made me think that maybe I had tightened up the spring bolts enough. I whipped the clutch cover off again and set my torque wrench to 8nm and commenced to tighten the bolts again. The main reason why I thought I may not have tightened them before was when the torque wrench has reached the right setting it is meant to disengage which it didnt do. I stopped because I didnt want to risk overtightening them.

Anyway I carried on tightening each bolt and they got tighter and tighter.... And then one of them snapped its head off!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have never used this torque wrench before so I dont know if this is the tools fault or mine.

Now I presume I need another clutch basket if I cannt get the remains of the bolt out.

Can I temporarily use the clutch with only 5 bolts?

and lastly what else could have caused the problem I had when I first put the clutch back together?

Post by **Stig** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 4:34 pm

Small ball bearing missing from end of push rod maybe. Try it with cover off to see if lever moves out the pressure plate (engine off obviously)

Post by **Stig** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 4:40 pm

Btw if the bolt snapped through too much pressure, a couple of minutes with an extractor will soon have it out

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 5:15 pm

i could feel pressure on the clutch lever and I have not had the push rod out so I am hoping it is not that!!!!!!!!!

willandrip · Post by **willandrip** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 6:24 pm

Like Stig says.

I always check operation of any components when reassembled before replacing covers.

It is so easy to do with a clutch to check the plates are separating with use of the lever.

The pressure plate bolts are notoriously weak to start with.
I believe it is recommended to replace them at a clutch rebuild.

As stated; with no load on the snapped threads it will be easily removed.

Don't run with 5.....you have enough grief now ...!

Make sure the pressure plate is aligned properly before nipping it up.

On the 600s there is a /\ mark that aligns with a hole in the pressure plate...look for maybe similar on the 1K. It is not in any manuals !

You now have the opposite problem to your original stuck clutch.

I still recommend blocking the front wheel and breaking the bond between the plates mechanically in your previous situation....it saves a nation of fuck on .!

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:02 pm

if I have to replace a single bolt, would it be worth replacing all of them with stronger bolts? If so, what would be a suitable replacement. I presumed that taking the clutch apart and separating the plates manually would sort the problem out. I assumed my problem now was that the pressure plate was not putting enough pressure on the friction plates to engage the clutch when in gear, hence why I thought I hadnt tightened the bolts enough.

I have never really dealt with engine inernals before and so never used a torque wrench before. Having said that I was careful to set the measurement on the handle properly. The torqu wrench is brand new and this is the first time I have used it. Maybe I should have set it lower to start with?

willandrip · Post by **willandrip** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:21 pm

Are those bolts not a shaped fastener ?

I think they are shouldered to accommodate the springs.!

It is expensive to change all six.

You will have more than likely set the torque correctly.

They fail BELOW the recommended setting.

That figure is for brand new fixings not 25 year old pre used items.

They just need the slightest " nip" to secure them.

Hundreds if not thousands of owners have done the same thing r.e sheared clutch bolts

Yes ; in an ideal world stripping ,separating, measuring tolerances, replacing all unserviceable parts including bearings,replacing all the six pre used bolts and the cover gasket will result in an fully serviced clutch and would have solved your original problem
Unfortunately it will also result in a very large bill and may lead to complications as you have just found.

It also takes quite a bit of time.

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:48 pm

would these do the job. I would rather replace all of the bolts and the price looks ok. When I first refitted the clutch I did the bolts as tight as I could before overtightening them and as u say I now have the opposite problem.

I dont mean to question the judgement of the advice given, but the bike has been sat on the drive for over a year and I want to be using it again!!!!!!

thunder_taz · Post by **thunder_taz** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 7:51 pm

oops the link always helps!!!!!!!!

http://yambits.co.uk/yzf1000r-thunderac ... 40815.html

willandrip · Post by **willandrip** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 8:18 pm

The clutch does not transmit friction because you have reassembled it
incorrectly somehow.
Not because the bolts were insufficiently tightened.

I understand you wish to ride it immediately...that is why I recommended
using the engine to break the bond between the plates.

It would have been a 30 second operation.

I have no idea if the linked bolts are suitable.

Find the part no. of the FZR 1000 bolt and X reference it with the genuine bolt for the model you linked...

Yambits are not noted for ;a quality or b; accuracy of description.
Some parts theysupply are OK and others pure shite....

Post by **nuggitt** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 8:50 pm

I've just had a look on here and its numbered as# 12

here's the link.

Click here

Exup 1000

stalling

Stalling