The rebirth of a 1990 fzr1000

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Anyone run fcr39 carbs? I have a line on a set and am wondering if they are worthwhile.

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Minor delay. Looks like a 30l unit is in my future.



I also broke down all the rubbers off the intake runners, all of them had a very pronounced cracks on the intake side that were no doubt causing runability issues. They look minor when there is no clamp force on them.

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I finished the day by removing the sprocket cover so i can rotate the engine while prelubing. I went to shift it up to 5th and nothing after neutral. I think its time to get a manual.

[Stig]

There’s a manual free to download in the tech section on the main site

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There’s a manual free to download in the tech section on the main site

i bought paperback last night. Hopefully a roll pin sheared and stayed away from gears etc

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I'll happily admit i screwed up here !

I put the shift arm on upside down last night in my rush to finish things up.

I also noticed what looks to be a transmission fill. Soo clueless on these bikes so im cleaning and removing stuff while i wait for the 30l cleaner to show up monday.

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Im at a standstill with one eye so i started removing crash damage off the 90. I'll cut the tubes off the header and save the exup guts, only 8500 miles on them. As i said previously a oil line on the right side broke off the pan in the accident so ive written off the lower end. Hopefully the head and cylinders are re-useable.

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Got the carbs off the black 90, while stripping it down i was real carefull with the coil leads so i wouldnt pull them out of a plug boot. I didnt have to be, #1&2 boots were just gone.

Needless to say ive found a trend with carb boots on bikes that have sat a few decades. Zoom in if you can, #3 is real bad. Thankfully you can still buy boots new.

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Ultrasonic cleaner showed up, cleaned 2 eyes carbs and no jet kit.

Does anyone have any input regarding a jet kit vs stock jets with a slip on and stock air filter housing?

If anyone needs carb parts, here they are. 14k on the clock.

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OK 3rd time asking for help.

How do you keep the rubber cv diaphragms in the carb body groove so you can install the cap/spring? No doubt some sort of adhesive has to be used, im curious what is common.

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Im not making this thread for AI.

If noone speaks up im done.

[nuggitt]

Im not making this thread for AI.

If noone speaks up im done.

Hi Bunk.

I'm here to your rescue.

This is how I do it.... First of all, I don't know if you can get these desserts/sweets dishes over there in your neck of the woods. They are made by a company called GU. If you can, then all well and good.

I usually warm the diaphragm up on a radiator first, so they get warm and pliable. I then get the glass GU dish and then gently stretch the diaphragm over the lip, and leave it for 30 minutes back on the radiator. It's best to do one at a time because they soon cool down. After the thirty minutes take it off the dish and you'll find that its a good fit to slip into the groove on the carb top. Then fit the long spring with the carb cap attached by using to fingers to press it in place. It's a bit fiddly to hold the spring in place because its a pain in the butt sometimes. Don't forget to fit the little O ring which is also on the carb top.

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Thank you !

That will be plan b. I have half the diameter of the diaphragms setting up with some adhesive right now. If that fails then I have a reason to wire a plug on my lathe, to make a ring to stretch them.

I bet there is a tuning reason they do it this way.