valve adustment

pilninggas · Post by **pilninggas** » Fri Jul 06, 2018 4:45 pm

no offence to TSB; but have you done it right?

I've done quite a few valve clearance jobs on a few different bikes and i cant recall ever finding the inlets closed up like that. ime it's usually the zorst valves that close up, ive rarely had to adjust inlets.

two-stroke-brit · Post by **two-stroke-brit** » Fri Jul 06, 2018 7:38 pm

no offense taken

90 % of my motorcycle motor experience is vintage 2 strokes .
so way out of my comfort zone here.
i was surprised that one cam was nicely in spec and the other was so far out.
i may be doing something wrong in my measuring.
or the PO may have set them up wrong .
i have both cams pointing away from each other as in the the manual at TDC.
i will look for a local tech that will do it privately.
(my brother was the car mechanic that would do this for me unfortunately he is on another continent).
thanks again mark

Teego · Post by **Teego** » Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:15 pm

I dare say two stroke smokin' ring ding dingers are as politically correct as the KKK in the good ol' good ol'.
Still see quite a few around Derbyshire on Sundays. LCs, Kettles, CRs, TDRs etc. Good ones seem to be collectable and pricey.

two-stroke-brit · Post by **two-stroke-brit** » Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:48 pm

yep you are spot on .
Prices are still rising
i have a 82 350LC .(not many here).
had a 750 kettle,and a 500 H1 and a 78 DT400.
All fun bikes in the own way.
but i think i am going to like the Fzr when i get it going

Teego · Post by **Teego** » Fri Jul 06, 2018 9:06 pm

two-stroke-brit wrote:yep you are spot on .
Prices are still rising
i have a 82 350LC .(not many here).
had a 750 kettle,and a 500 H1 and a 78 DT400.
All fun bikes in the own way.
but i think i am going to like the Fzr when i get it going

Sure, but you'll miss the smoke, smell and oil rash on your leathers.

pilninggas · Post by **pilninggas** » Sat Jul 07, 2018 8:59 am

if you've got this far, then doing it right should be an issue.

You may be right - the last person may have done it all wrong; it's been seen lots of times.

Getting to the cams is the hard part, not the measurement imo.

Have another go.

itsnotagenesis · Post by **itsnotagenesis** » Sat Jul 07, 2018 9:31 pm

Just checking but while measuring the gaps you are rotating the crank to different positions as they are not all checked in the one position.

two-stroke-brit · Post by **two-stroke-brit** » Mon Jul 09, 2018 1:18 am

itsnotagenesis wrote:Just checking but while measuring the gaps you are rotating the crank to different positions as they are not all checked in the one position.

yes i went to the compression stroke on each cylinder.

thanks mark

joeboy · Post by **joeboy** » Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:14 am

The valves on these engines tend to pocket more as the heads are very small on the inlet valves being 3 of them they will close the gaps up quicker than the exhaust valves. I think your readings are correct and it will be hard to start now but will run a lot better when you put the smaller shims in.

YAMAEXUP · Post by **YAMAEXUP** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 3:04 pm

I made a square of ally plate, drilled out the centre to the correct size & then found a small length of steel rod the right diameter that fitted into the recess in the end of the crank for a crank turning tool. Once i'd found the right place to put the small dowel I drilled out the hole undersize & inset the dowel into place. This works perfectly for turning the crank over for ascertaining the clearances. (shame that photobucket doesn't work on this forum as a picture says a thousand words...)

As for valve clearances, I prefer to use an Imperial set of feeler gauges for this job, as I find Metric gauges too course.

Once you think that you've found the correct size shims & installed them, put the crank into position so that all 4 pistons are mid-way in the bores. Then install the cam without the camchain & turn it over by hand or with a tool, checking to ensure that you've got the correct clearance.

The most difficult job is getting the cams realigned once everything is done, as it's not that easy to see the crank web markings....

two-stroke-brit · Post by **two-stroke-brit** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 4:23 pm

Thanks for the advise.

if you could email the pic as you say "1000 words"
i will make my own
i have PMd you my email address
cheers mark

itsnotagenesis · Post by **itsnotagenesis** » Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:42 pm

I made one of these too when I done the clearances on my old exup.
Mine was a rectangle of alloy plate that I could fit a 17mm spanner on the shorter ends. A hole drilled in the middle to connect to the end of the crank and a half drilled hole to stick the pin in to stop the plate from turning without the crank turning. It worked.
Im sure people have said that you can do it by just sticking it in gear and turning the rear wheel which would save making the tool and trying to remove the 3 crosshead screws on the crank cover.

YAMAEXUP · Post by **YAMAEXUP** » Tue Jul 31, 2018 10:11 pm

two-stroke-brit wrote:Thanks for the advise.

if you could email the pic as you say "1000 words"
i will make my own
i have PMd you my email address
cheers mark

Emailed by return Mark

two-stroke-brit · Post by **two-stroke-brit** » Mon May 20, 2019 12:56 am

well its back together only apart for a month .
two weeks waiting on shims.
thought i would see if it would start before putting everything back on.
and i put the battery on charge ,it shows 13.5 volts across the terminals.
but absolutely nothing when i turn the key.
no lights not even a glimmer.
checked the fusses all good there.
hooked it up to the ride on mower and dim lights and a slow crank.
No firing.
so jumped from the car and bingo.
started right up.

how can the battery show full charge and not even a glimmer with the lights etc.
i assume i need a new battery

thanks in advance mark.