valve adustment

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two-stroke-brit
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valve adustment

Post by two-stroke-brit »

Hi all, Am i reading this right , i need to remove the camshafts to adjust the clearances by swapping out the buckets.

cheers mark
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Teego
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Re: valve adustment

Post by Teego »

two-stroke-brit wrote:Hi all, Am i reading this right , i need to remove the camshafts to adjust the clearances by swapping out the buckets.

cheers mark
Almost right. You need to remove cams after checking clearances so you can get in to change shims. Buckets are retained.
Good luck.
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Post by two-stroke-brit »

thanks teego.
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two-stroke-brit
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Post by two-stroke-brit »

Hi All, i have searched for the timing rotor plate 33M-81673-10 as called for in the manual but cant find one on ebay or partzilla.
also it says to turn the crankshaft counter clockwise but it just lossens the bolt .
what am i doing wrong.
i just want to check the cam valve clearances.
cheers mark
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Teego
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Post by Teego »

I can e-mail you an Exup service/repair manual if you like. Just PM me with your address.
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Post by two-stroke-brit »

that would be great .
mark.dobson@sbcglobal.net
thanks mark
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Teego
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Post by Teego »

two-stroke-brit wrote:that would be great .
mark.dobson@sbcglobal.net
thanks mark
On its way.
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Post by two-stroke-brit »

got it thanks .
any pointers to finding a timing plate ?
thanks mark
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Fatdog
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Post by Fatdog »

You shouldn't need the timing plate.
If the end of the crank is the same as my YZF, all you need is the correct bolt (M8?) and a flange nut.
Screw the flange nut on the bolt (with the flange side opposite the bolt head) and then screw the bolt into the end of the crank. then tighten the flange nut up against the crank (this is the key - make sure it is well tight!).
You should now be able to turn the crank using the bolt head. If the nut comes undone then the nut wasn't tight enough.
Remove the spark plugs as well to reduce compression.
Good Luck!
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Post by two-stroke-brit »

thanks for that fatdog ,that makes sense it is 8mm as you say.
will take a another look on the 4th .
cheers mark
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Post by two-stroke-brit »

so i took the rad off which helped a lot.
and locknuted the 8mm bolt into the crank. :)
and was able to check the clearances.
all the exhaust valves were between 0.2 and 0.25 mm happy with that.
but all the inlets were under 0.1 and some were probably close to zero .

i don't think would that cause hard starting, would it ?

thanks mark
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Post by Graham Crayon »

I would do a compression test on all 4 pots. 140-160 is considered healthy as I recall. Considerably less on any one of them & I would expect it to cause starting problems for sure.
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Post by Teego »

two-stroke-brit wrote:so i took the rad off which helped a lot.
and locknuted the 8mm bolt into the crank. :)
and was able to check the clearances.
all the exhaust valves were between 0.2 and 0.25 mm happy with that.
but all the inlets were under 0.1 and some were probably close to zero .

i don't think would that cause hard starting, would it ?

thanks mark
I would have thought that if your inlets were tight that would bugger Fuel/air flow and affect starting.
Keep on keepin' on.
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Post by Fatdog »

Teego wrote:
two-stroke-brit wrote:so i took the rad off which helped a lot.
and locknuted the 8mm bolt into the crank. :)
and was able to check the clearances.
all the exhaust valves were between 0.2 and 0.25 mm happy with that.
but all the inlets were under 0.1 and some were probably close to zero .

i don't think would that cause hard starting, would it ?

thanks mark
I would have thought that if your inlets were tight that would bugger Fuel/air flow and affect starting.
I would agree with Teego.
They need doing anyway so do them first and then see how you get on.
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two-stroke-brit
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Post by two-stroke-brit »

thanks everyone i will keep you posted .
cheers mark
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