stupid bike or stupid me?

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Fri Mar 30, 2018 5:31 pm

It's not that bit I'm worried about. It's the part the slave cylinder case bolts onto the engine. Here is a picture. Probably me being stupid at a guess.
From the start of this thread I said I undid the clutch slave cylinder case and was told I would need to bleed the system. But the case isn't a sealed unit.

https://imageshack.com/i/poU6r3h1j

Post by **Stig** » Fri Mar 30, 2018 6:12 pm

The clutch is a sealed system from the master to the slave piston. Any sign of fluid at the slave end will be as a result of worn piston seals/corrosion in the bore

The slave is simply a mechanical joint held by 3 bolts to the side casing of the engine

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:24 pm

Thanks for the confirmation stig. Much appreciated

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Sat Mar 31, 2018 7:31 pm

Please tell me if this bit fits into that hole where the rod sits? I have been trying to get it in there but really struggling. If so which way round does it go as I'm sure there wasn't one on there when I took it apart

https://imageshack.com/i/poc1LBTkj

https://imageshack.com/i/poc1LBTkj

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Sat Mar 31, 2018 7:40 pm

Also any advise on how to get it in there as well

redapple · Post by **redapple** » Sat Mar 31, 2018 7:43 pm

you dont need it, that is the clutch oil seal it fits from the other side where the clutch plates are.Don't forget to put some grease on the push rod end

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Sat Mar 31, 2018 9:51 pm

Well everything is put back together system bled. pissing down with rain i just couldn't resist going for a ride, so at the start the clutch was slipping for the first 5-10 mins then magically stopped slipping at all. Now i am really hoping that is problem sorted but for some reason in the back of my mind there is a niggle. is there anyway that the clutch could slip when the engine is cold and stop slipping when engine gets hot? I have heard of clutches working fine when cold but then start slipping when get hot, im guessing the real test will be in the morning when i ride to work. could there be a reason it ws slipping then sorted itself out? thank you

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Sun Apr 01, 2018 11:16 pm

well its bad news

Took the bike out this morning and it was slipping again. once the bike is warmed up though the clutch stopped slipping at all. A few people have asked what oil was used in the last oil change as some bike dont like certain oils. i spoke to previous owner and he says he bought this service kit from ebay

Service kit

Im guessing this is th right oil??
any ideas of my next move? would you recommend looking at the plates? any reason why it would only slip when cold and work perfect when up to temp? thanks

Graham Crayon · Post by **Graham Crayon** » Sun Apr 01, 2018 11:45 pm

If it sorts itself out once warm I would just live with it for now. My Fazer clutch used to slip from cold before I killed it at my local drag strip. It still got me home though. Probably early signs of clutch being on its way out but they are tough things to be fair. Will probably soldier on for ages.

redapple · Post by **redapple** » Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:28 am

Was the bike stored for a while and do you have trouble finding neutral?
Had a similar problem on my previous bike, sounds like you might have to clean the clutch steel and friction plates.

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Mon Apr 02, 2018 1:35 pm

No bike wasn't stored. No not hard to find neutral. Goes through all the gears perfectly

redapple · Post by **redapple** » Mon Apr 02, 2018 3:31 pm

1. try re-bleeding the clutch, try the piston push back method I suggested.

If that still does not work

2. you will have to clean the clutch pack, steels and friction plates which is more than likely the problem. Its not a difficult job. Just need to make sure you have a spare clutch cover gasket if your one is old. I would also replace the clutch springs at the same time, wemoto do good ones. There gecko Hard springs are really good but will make your clutch lever harder to pull, but they grip really well.
Here is a picture below to help, you might want to invest in a haynes manual if you like to do your own repairs.

-soak the steel plates in petrol or white spirits and then clean them with a green scouring pad, if they are burned/blue or warped/not straight, you will need to replace them.
-friction plates soak them in washing powder and hot water , then brush with scouring pad or tooth brush.

- Remember the order that the pads came out they will need to go back in the same way
- clutch steel plates round edge faces out.
- Make sure the clutch springs are centered when done up
- don't over tighten the clutch or pressure plate bolts, wrist tight 10Nm or they will snap. ( Dont Ask me How I know about that)
- everything undone and tightened in criss xcross pattern.

Post by **Stig** » Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:52 pm

Don't forget there's a full Yamaha workshop manual free to download in the tech section on the main site

nismo · Post by **nismo** » Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:40 am

Stig wrote:no facebook im afraid

I only joined FB to access parts in groups and links that my lad sent me
Don't DO friends coz im a miserable twat

You forgot miserable BALD twat

Post by **Stig** » Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:53 am