stupid bike or stupid me?

Post by **nuggitt** » Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:43 pm

Stig wrote:
Don't DO friends coz I'm a miserable twat

True, so very true.

You new that was coming.

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:08 pm

fair enough

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:14 pm

https://youtu.be/Kkztkhje1lA

This is as far as I got with the pulley and adjusting the cables. But for some reason it just won't reset the fork back over the hole. And I can't see bloody why. The cables are nice and tight now but I don't think they are to tight. As you can see the pulley moves freely when revved

Fatdog · Post by **Fatdog** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:54 pm

Now that you have run the engine, adjust the cables using the adjusters (don't just turn the fork with your hand) so that the fork is located over the hole.
If the servo motor was moved slightly during your initial set-up then it will relocate itself when you switch the ignition on (and move the fork out of the original position you set it at).
Hope that helps.

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 1:21 pm

Thank you. All sorted now. It resets itself perfect over the hole now

left the cover and side fairing off though and will Try it again tomorrow as I am still cautious lol. Just this stupid clutch to sort now. The thing with the clutch that is bothering me, is
All I did was undo the bolts on the slave cylinder unit then realised what I did and tightened it all back up, then the clutch started slipping really badly. I still don't think it's anything to do with the clutch itself but I don't see how air is getting in the system that badly to make it slip as bad as it is doing. I have bled the system and got clean fluid going through now and got all the air bubbles out but is still the same although not quite as bad. I have bought the seal kit for the slave cylinder though and should be here next week. I know you are all experts and have probably worked on all your bikes alot and that's why I bought the seal kit for the slave cylinder from your advise. Does the case I undid not just have a gasket? I can't see there being a seal round the case I undid (slave cylinder) sorry for the essay, money a bit tight at the minute and just wanna get it right

P.s 2 cups of tea for everyone at Lincoln meet

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 1:24 pm

I hope I didnt come across rude in that last reply to anyone. I really have appreciated all the help from everyone

redapple · Post by **redapple** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 4:31 pm

I had quite bad clutch troubles before and I wrote a post on how to test your slave cyclinder and master it is at the bottom of this post
http://www.exup1000.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14195

Bleeding clutch cyclinders can be quite tricky and the hose route is not the best.
A trick to try undo the slave cyclinder and let it hang, pump the slave piston out 4-5 times just past flush, then shake it and the hose . Then push the piston all the wayback. Do this about 5 times and then bleed the slave cyclinder twice.
Do this procedure about 3 times and see how it works for you.

Just in case here is a picture of the slave piston with the seal the right way round

Graham Crayon · Post by **Graham Crayon** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 6:12 pm

I've read all this, twice or more now. I'm struggling to understand why the clutch would slip if the system needs bleeding. Surely it would drag? Slave piston pushes the rod & ball bearing which releases pressure from clutch springs & disengages drive from pressure plates. With air in the fluid it will just do a crap job of moving the piston, rod, ball etc when the lever is pulled in. Unless the rod is sticking I would be looking at clutch plates, engine oil grade.
If fluid came out when the casing bolts were undone then there is a serious leak from the piston seal so I understand why that would need sorting.. . But only if that's the case? If the piston is badly corroded & is now stuck out ie, not returning from pressure of clutch springs then I could see it slipping.

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 6:25 pm

thanks for the thread i will have a look at it. I have just spoken to previous owner and he bought a service kit for it and it was 10/40w oil he used. i did a bit of digging and have something else to try as well. Alot of people have slipping clutches and struggle to find out why, alot of the time the return valve thing in the master cylinder gets blocked as its a tiny hole so gonna have a look to see if it is clear

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 8:15 pm

https://youtu.be/oFm9YkIotM0

Right I thought stuff it and took the slave cylinder off. Doesn't look great in there so gonna get the piston out and cleaned up ready for the new seal kit. Am I OK to leave it all of till next week when the seal kit gets here? Meaning there will be no fluid in the system? At all?

Post by **Stig** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 9:49 pm

System will be fine left empty. Just make sure the line isn't left to drain anywhere any remaining fluid might cause damage

Graham Crayon · Post by **Graham Crayon** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 10:04 pm

Having owned several FZ750s which have the exact same set up I can safely say I've seen worse.
You have an obvious fluid leak and if that's the resting position for the piston then it would explain the clutch slip. It's sticking out like a dogs knob!

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Fri Mar 30, 2018 9:16 am

No that wasn't where it was rested. I pumped the clutch to get the piston out. Seal kit will be here next week. I really can't see it sorting the problem but we shall see what happens

Justincoleman · Post by **Justincoleman** » Fri Mar 30, 2018 3:26 pm

I have just had a look at the bike and realised that the slave cylinder cover isn't even a sealed unit or if it is meant to be something has fallen off

can someone confirm this for me please?

redapple · Post by **redapple** » Fri Mar 30, 2018 4:38 pm

What you have in the video looks correct.
Here is a diagram to show you all the parts for it

I had a look at your video and your one looks exactly like mine did when I first took it off.
I would pump the piston completely out and disconnect the hose from it. Then take the seals off and give everything a very good clean. At the same time I would disconnect take off the master cylinder and give a wash out as well. Blow it out and leave both to air dry on a radiator.

here is a very good video on how to disassemble the master cylinder if its your first time. it practically the same as what you have on the bike.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njKRhPwHOaM

Once dry try re-bleeding