Vivian - Banner's streetfighter experiment.

banner001 · Post by **banner001** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 9:37 am

im starting on the wiring for the clock now, ive got the indicators wired in, would have done more but had to help the missus do her NI declaration last night.

tonight ill be wiring in the brake light switches and hopefully the rear/front/side lights and if time permits the neutral and oil light switches.

when those are done i should be close to finishing, ill need to wire in the ignition and ground/+ve cables, as well as the alternator and battery, then i will do the spark plugs and wire in the clocks...and off the top of my head that should just about do me

ive wired the indicators up (hopefully) correct, so that instead of getting a single flashing light on the clock display, i should be getting them to flash with a left arrow or right arrow accordingly. at this rate i might be finished for mid april ready for testing the new electrics

Post by **nugget** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 10:08 am

banner001 wrote:. At this rate i might be finished for mid april ready for testing the new electrics

Good it'll be just in time for a run out to Lincoln in May.

Putting the feelers out on this statement.

undeadhairy · Post by **undeadhairy** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:37 pm

As long as its not raining I should be up for it

banner001 · Post by **banner001** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 12:59 pm

thats the plan, i couldnt really take it out before as it had no lights or instruments...i managed to run it in fine as i managed to cable-tie the speedometer on (so i had the odometer reading)...but i would have had a job explaining it if i had been stopped.

only piece of equipment im missing so far is a crimper to do the battery terminals, once that gets here im sorted, more pics tonight, its starting to look like a right rats nest of wires, but doing it this way is the easiest as i know everything will be the correct length. i can then remove the loom and add the insulation tape/seperate the necessary bits of the loom on my work bench.

if anyone has an unmolested loom from a 1989-1990 fzr1000 exup r can they weigh it for me? im pretty sure the RU should be almost the same - im looking in your direction chris

i would like to know if mine is any lighter (doubt it, maybe a few hundred grams), although taken into consideration with a few lighter components, lighter clocks etc. im sure there is about a kilo or so saved by doing all this...remember the aim is to get it as close to (or ideally under) 200kg.

Post by **Stig** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 1:45 pm

I have a loom, i'll weigh it later

banner001 · Post by **banner001** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 3:19 pm

cheers paul, just the bare wires, no boxes/relays/fuses, just the wire loom please

banner001 · Post by **banner001** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 10:00 pm

wiring as it was when i started today:-

now with the brake lights/switches wired in:

starting to get a bit crowded down there...but its gonna get worse tomorrow, got the biggest complex of wires to go in yet...the headlights and all their associated wires:-

this wiring loop should allow me to have a light icon come on in the clocks when the lights are set to "sidelights" or "dipped", and another when they flick onto high beam. gonna wire these in tomorrow...might be almost finished for the weekend at this rate

i might have to think about removing the loom from the bike now that im getting near to the end so i can start partitioning it off a bit. i can also check which wires i still have to fit, and maybe wire in my large black -ve, and large brown +ve wires.

Post by **nugget** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 10:05 pm

You'll be a dab hand at making spaghetti after that little lot.

Post by **Stig** » Sat Mar 29, 2014 10:27 am

loom with empty fuse box weighs 889g

banner001 · Post by **banner001** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:58 pm

cheers stig, my full wrapped loom (minus starter cables, but including all sub looms) weighs in at 710g, given that the switches/lights/indicators etc are all lighter i reckon that ive saved a good kilo just in wiring...anyways its time for an update..drum roll please...

once i got a handle on were everything needed to be i removed the wiring from the bike so i could wrap it better:

i then pre-emptively (yes im THAT confident) wrapped it all and tested the fit...100% bang-on!

...leaving me just the rear end to sort out (this is now almost finished)

airbox fits like a dream, no resistance from below which is nice:

a quick video to show that turning the handlebars doesnt perturb the airbox, this was with no clamps on the airbox, its just lightly seated, so if there was wome movement it would show...there isnt any

finished wiring in the ignition, turned the key and it all works!!!

ignore the neutral and oil lights, i had not wired them in and i had forgot to ground the frame/engine to the battery. now when i turn the key the neutral light comes on - can someone just check that the oil light on a '89 FZR1000 should NOT come on when the ignition is turned on/kill switch set to RUN please? and the neutral light goes off when i click into gear. the indicators work and are directional, the sidelight indicator bulb works along with the physical sidelight, the dipped and high beam lights work correctly.

my only issue so far (i think) is that the high beam indicator bulb comes on when i switch to dipped lights...i might have connected it to the wrong wire, or it might be that i tested it before i did the engine/frame to earth correctly...although i doubt thats the problem.

im missing a few 6-pin connector blocks so i cant wire in the rear lights, although i have done as much with them as i can, and i need to wait until the end of april to buy my hydraulic battery crimping tool (unless anone on here has one and ill come over??), also need a large 2-pin connector (for the alternator) and my coils/subloom...then it truely is "finished".

happy, you might just say that i am

Post by **nugget** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:16 pm

I've just been out to my bike and when you turn it on the green neutral light comes on. When you put it into gear the green light goes off obviously. There's no red oil light lights up. The oil light lights up when you press the starter button then it will go off after a few seconds. Hope that helps John.

banner001 · Post by **banner001** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:35 pm

excellent, cheers nuggit-lad!

ive gotta work out if ive wired in the high beam indicator light correctly, if i remove the wires to the headlight it works correctly, so maybe ive made an error...ill work through where i might have gone wrong over the following week...99% correct so far though

banner001 · Post by **banner001** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 11:12 pm

Currently trying to work out my 'high beam indicator light' problem. If i remove the headlight bulb my problem disapears so i only get the clock light coming on when i've got the high beam on...doesnt come on for dipped. So as far as i can tell one of 2 possibilities. 1 - i've wired in the headlight wrong, or 2 - there is current flowing through the high beam wire from the dipped headlight wire i.e. Its not being grounded properly or its having current drawn through it and that's pulling current through the indicator bulb. If its issue 1 i will rewire the headlight. If its issue 2 i'll have to get out my mulimeter and see if i can trace the direction of current...then i either fix the issue if its obvious or if not i'll have to try a diode to prevent the current from flowing in the wrong way. I think its issue number 2 as when i switch from dipped to main beam the indicator light gets brighter as if its recieving an aditional current input...but my multimeter is dead so i'll have to borrow the works one. I hope if it is issue 2 the cable is acting as a ground wire...i can fix that without going into the new loom too much.

banner001 · Post by **banner001** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 11:41 am

ok, im almost sorted, my wiring is not an issue with my bikes wiring, its an issue with the LED bulb thats in the clock...ill explain.

on your normal bike when you switch onto dipped the power goes from the switch to the bulb and then to ground...BUT a small amount of power (around a third) goes through the headlights high-beam input wire and grounds through the high beam indicator bulb. normally this bulb is around 1.5W and requires >9V to power it properly...

...on my new clocks its an LED bulb with around 1/6th to 1/10th to wattage of the old bulb. this new bulb works off only a few volts of power, so the small amount of "grounding" that the bulb was doing is now sufficient to light the LED.

slightly annoying, so what im gonna do is fit a 10A 50V diode to the yellow high-beam wire just before the headlight, this should stop any reverse flow, and only dim my full-beam headlights by a small amount (max 0.5V)...might even be here for the weekend.

also i need to have a look at adding a resistor in series with each of the clock indicator lights...they are currently very bright. ill get a variable resistor and measure what ohm range looks good to cut the brightness down, i would estimate it could come down by a quarter of the brightness.

banner001 · Post by **banner001** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:15 pm

its my birthday tomorrow (31

) so im trying to finish off the wiring.

rear lights/numberplate lights/rear indicators are now wired in and working, front/rear brake makes the light brighter and there are no issues depending on the setting of lights/dipped/high beam...so thats very good

ive wired in the alternator and the exup servo (turns on startup if the servo is moved out of position beforehand)...so all good there. my list of things "to wire" is now:
1. fuel meter ground lead
2. radiator fan
3. 2 wires for the clock in the tacho/speedo - needs a square 9V battery
4. large battery/starter motor/starter relay

...and thats the bike wired...my god its been a mammoth job!