re-chrome fork leg help

dangerousdave · Post by **dangerousdave** » Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:30 pm

Whilst the front end of the bike is out I thought I'd change the oil seals, on closer inspection I've found the chrome has worn through on one of legs.
After looking at the trusty Haynes manual I don't see that the bottom part of the leg comes apart from the tube, i see there is a funny looking screw that could be holding these two bits together but unsure if they come apart for re-chroming, anybody have any ideas or some new stantions as I've been told it's about 60 a leg to re-chrome.
Cheers Dave

dangerousdave · Post by **dangerousdave** » Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:47 pm

Cheers Chris, yes they are the RU ones, I'll have a blast at them tonight , I think I'll have the bottom bits powdered as they have stone chips on,
Thank again Dave.

joeboy · Post by **joeboy** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:31 pm

Did you get these legs done in the end...I see there are new ones now on ebay for 110 each...

I fancy a crack at getting mine done if i can get them done for 60 each..

dangerousdave · Post by **dangerousdave** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:23 pm

Hi joeboy, just manage to get them apart tonight think I'm going to run them over to dyna surf in sandbach tomorrow, 185 quid for rechroming, better than standard finish apparently, I'll post some pics in turbo time on here and show you the damage.

joeboy · Post by **joeboy** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:17 pm

Ok cheers....at 185 I might just buy one new leg and fit it..

I liked the 60 quid each price better...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141116784184

dangerousdave · Post by **dangerousdave** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:59 pm

I know it's a dear doo, that is for two tho. but what can you do eh, if you need them you've gotta get them done, brakes my heart to spend that money and not really see anything to show for it, but should have another 23 years of hard riding until the next time.

Post by **Stig** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:48 pm

If I have to get any done i'm gonna go for the gold nitride coating

Dont care if its less durable... with the amount of miles i do a year it'll see me out

dangerousdave · Post by **dangerousdave** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:33 pm

Looked at different colours me sen but with all the polished crap I've got on mine to put a different shiny colour on didn't think it would match, but yeah the gold or blue look the nuts

Post by **creedxup** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:53 pm

dangerousdave wrote:I know it's a dear doo, that is for two tho. but what can you do eh, if you need them you've gotta get them done, brakes my heart to spend that money and not really see anything to show for it, but should have another 23 years of hard riding until the next time.

I've got a pair of 1991-1993 fork legs, just serviced with new oil, in good order that you could have for that price.

dangerousdave · Post by **dangerousdave** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:30 pm

I would of had them off you but I've sent the legs off today

Tiger · Post by **Tiger** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 10:42 am

Proper hardchrome is different from standard plating and infinitely more durable.
A stone thrown up from the tyre of a vehicle in front will pit the std plating and see you chopping out fork seals, generally regardless of if you try to polish the pit out with diamond paper.
Good hardchrome is unaffected by high speed stones, the std plating is as good as you will get on a std bike where Accountants are involved in Engineering.
My Thunderace has shields integral with fork seal wipers to deflect stuff, not only stones admittedly as bugs and such are hard on wipers and seals.
IME Jap fork tubes are a soft grade of maybe 400 [?] series stainless steel, free machining for manufacture and quiet strong/resilient but soft.
Bugger buying new, make a better part out of the original.

Post by **creedxup** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:20 pm

Tiger wrote:Proper hardchrome is different from standard plating and infinitely more durable.
A stone thrown up from the tyre of a vehicle in front will pit the std plating and see you chopping out fork seals, generally regardless of if you try to polish the pit out with diamond paper.
Good hardchrome is unaffected by high speed stones, the std plating is as good as you will get on a std bike where Accountants are involved in Engineering.
My Thunderace has shields integral with fork seal wipers to deflect stuff, not only stones admittedly as bugs and such are hard on wipers and seals.
IME Jap fork tubes are a soft grade of maybe 400 [?] series stainless steel, free machining for manufacture and quiet strong/resilient but soft.
Bugger buying new, make a better part out of the original.

True, I'd like mine Titanium Nitided though

dangerousdave · Post by **dangerousdave** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 2:50 pm

This stuff I'm having is rock ard and better than standard apparently, think it might be the stuff they use on jcb s , makes sense as they get some hammer with bricks and whatnot falling on them.

itsnotagenesis · Post by **itsnotagenesis** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 5:03 pm

I had mine done at Philpotts years ago, excellent service.
The only problem I found after getting them back was the reccess near the top where the ring goes under the clipons needed enlarged as the ring kept slipping out.
Hard chrome isnt quite as shiny either but would rather that over pitted chrome.

Post by **creedxup** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 6:58 pm

I had mine done at Philpotts as well, they weren't very shiny and you could feel lots of little ridges with your fingernail, worked fine though.

Exup 1000

re-chrome fork leg help

re-chrome fork leg help

Aftermarket plating is better

Re: Aftermarket plating is better