Vivian - Banner's streetfighter experiment.

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let the rebuild begin!


wow, its taken a while

i started taking the thing apart in october 2012, 9 months later and it starts to get built back up...getting the transmission on properly was so far the hardest bit after triple checking the shell bearing colours to be damn sure they are in right.

engine moves freely with no noises when turning by hand, starter is all fine and the gears are correctly located and move at least between N-1st-2nd so thats good

put the oil pan on tomorrow, then im scavenging about for some piston ring compressors - not doing them by hand, its difficult enough with the right gear!

then everything else is easy!

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fatdog - how did you manage to get the pistons in the bore

after 3 hours swearing at it in the hot weekend weather i gave up for the time being. did you do it as in the manual, i.e. put all 4 pistons+rings onto the conrods, then fit the middle 2, then the outer 2 cylinders?

also what ring compressors did you use, did you get some of the "hand ones", mine look like this

RING COMPRESSORS

or did you slide the pistons in at the top of the cylinders, and then fit them to the conrods?

and are your oil scavenger rings as tight as mine! the rest of the rings compress easy enough to be done by hand, but the oil scraper rings are really hard to compress

thanks for any help

john

[Fatdog]

Hi John,

First off I fitted all the pistons to the condors. I never tried sliding them down from the top as I would think it would be a right bugger trying to get the circlip in with very little room to work with between the crankcase and cylinder block (not saying it can't be done though).
Next I rotated the crank so that the two inner pistons were at their highest point as these were the two that I would feed in first.
Install the ring compressors (two needed and don't clamp them too tight), I bought the Laser ones which worked very well - LASER
Lower the cylinder block and position the pistons just inside the liner bore so that the compressors are up against the bottom skirt. Now tap the top of the block with your hand and steady the pistons with your other and you should see the pistons start to go in (go slow and steady as it should need much force to get them in).
Once all rings are in the bore remove the compressors. Now this was the tricky bit, you need to rotate the crank slightly in order to raise the outer pistons so that you can get the compressors on these ones. But watch the inner ones, if they drop to low then the lower ring will come out of the bore and you have to start again (yes I found this out the hard way). I also put a spacer between the crankcase and block to keep it in position while I installed the compressors.
Now it's just a case of lowering the block in the same way as I did with the inner pistons - I managed to do all this on my own but if you can get an extra pair of hands to help it might make all the difference.

I seem to remember the oil ring was harder to compress than the others, so I wouldn't worry that there is something wrong with them (I assume you have checked the ring gap clearance before fitting them to the piston).

Hope this offers some help, there is no way I could of done this without the compressors (shame your not local as you would more than welcome to borrow them) as I did try and soon realized that I was pissing in the wind!

Best of luck with it and keep us posted.

Dave

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im from huddersfield, but every bugger on here is from hull, or the surrounding area...it must be a in"breeding" thing

thanks for the info, was just what i needed, ive sold a top of bits on ebay so ill buy the compressor...did you manage with just one, or did you need 2?

[Fatdog]

im from huddersfield, but every bugger on here is from hull, or the surrounding area...it must be a in"breeding" thing

thanks for the info, was just what i needed, ive sold a top of bits on ebay so ill buy the compressor...did you manage with just one, or did you need 2?

You will need two of them as you need to feed in two pistons at a time.

Have fun!!

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ring compressors are here, and my brother in law is down, so we are gonna tackle these today...fingers crossed.

in other news, if you buy a pro-bolt engine kit for the fzr 1000 exup '89-90 kit, dont expect it to fit there are 4 incorrect bolt lengths, 2 for the water pump (both 10mm too long), and 2 for the sprocket cover (one is 10mm too long, the other 30mm too short)...replacements are in the post, along with all the other BRIGHT ORANGE bolts i need for the engine

im coming on with the zxr400 race bike as well, im picking up replacement forks on sunday, just need some part work tyres and a bit of fiberglass and its ready for its maiden voyage

next on the list will be making a modified rear caliper bracket for a scooter front brake (nice and small and lightweight - it doesnt get used on track much anyway the rear brake) and making a short subframe and a quick-and-dirty one-piece fiberglass rear.

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^ also the kit contains fuck all really, bolts for the clutch cover, water pump and front sprocket cover...im thinking of adding the individual components up and complaining of the price is less that way...

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fuck...yes...

[itsnotagenesis]

Your pistons are in the wrong way round.












Only kidding

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twunt, you actually made me double check the manual just then

[Fatdog]

Your pistons are in the wrong way round.












Only kidding

- thats one way of giving someone a heart attack!

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gonna rebuild the cylinder head tonight and get that bolted on, just need some spark plugs and a few odd o-rings that i forgot to previously buy and that engine is ready to fire up

i have a request though, does anyone have a tool to turn the crank round as i will need to do the timing soon??

[Stig]

could you fab something like this

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Nope. But a mate of mine should be able too, id not hought of a bar like that. Good idea

[itsnotagenesis]

I made one from a small bit of alloy a bolt and a small metal pin.
Just made the alloy plate 17mm so I could get a spanner on it to turn.