Vivian - Banner's streetfighter experiment.
...so thats where im up to currently. need to mock up the rear shock so i can work out with my sister (an architect) the design of the aluminium subframe, then i can loosly re-mount the engine upper and tank so i can work out where to position the fuel pump and new battery box. want to try to mass-centralise the battery so it will be held on the frame instead of the subframe near to the fuel tank...need to get it all sized up.
am currently cleaning bits and pieces...have done all the transmission pieces, will do the crank, connecting rods and pistns next, then i can start to re-assemble the engine back together
am currently cleaning bits and pieces...have done all the transmission pieces, will do the crank, connecting rods and pistns next, then i can start to re-assemble the engine back together
- oldskoolexup
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haha, nope! most complex thing i have ever done on a bike is fit a new exhaust...until i got this bike i had never held a clutch plate in my handoldskoolexup wrote:Looking good.
Looks like you've done this before!
hoping to have the engine rebuilt for end of february...i have just been told i am getting another pay increase, 1%, we are getting it rebated from august 2012 so that will pay for the tail plastic yay!
- oldskoolexup
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I'll second that.nuggitt wrote:I'd love to do what you're doing with taking the engine apart but I haven't got the experience or the courage to take it on. Hat's off to you mate.
questions to Banner.....what are you doing about gaskets etc and what's the budget?
Life begins at the end of your comfort zone,
Learn from the mistakes of others.............................
You can't live long enough to make them all yourself
&
Carpe Diem - seize the moment. Don't dream... Do!
Learn from the mistakes of others.............................
You can't live long enough to make them all yourself
&
Carpe Diem - seize the moment. Don't dream... Do!
- oldskoolexup
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Make sure starter clutch mechanism is in good order before it all goes back together.
You'll find that it's pretty much the last thing that's accesible and requires a full engine strip if it goes faulty.
So far as testing it for damage and clearances is concerned, suggest the other clever one's on here will be better placed to advise.
You'll find that it's pretty much the last thing that's accesible and requires a full engine strip if it goes faulty.
So far as testing it for damage and clearances is concerned, suggest the other clever one's on here will be better placed to advise.
Life begins at the end of your comfort zone,
Learn from the mistakes of others.............................
You can't live long enough to make them all yourself
&
Carpe Diem - seize the moment. Don't dream... Do!
Learn from the mistakes of others.............................
You can't live long enough to make them all yourself
&
Carpe Diem - seize the moment. Don't dream... Do!
already tested, taken apart, cleaned and re-assembledoldskoolexup wrote:Make sure starter clutch mechanism is in good order before it all goes back together.
You'll find that it's pretty much the last thing that's accessible and requires a full engine strip if it goes faulty.
So far as testing it for damage and clearances is concerned, suggest the other clever one's on here will be better placed to advise.
i mainly took it apart because the steel-bearing things moved out of position when i removed the gear, and you cant put them back without a disassemble...way to design yamaha!
i even checked and double checked that it turns in the correct way (as you remove it upside down like).
for +46,000 the engine is in remarkeable condition internally, externally was a different matter, but that can be sandblasted back to health
the selector forks are good, almost no marks to the gear dogs, no visible scratches to the conrod/crank bushings, gudgeon pins came out fine with no marks, all the oil lines seem open and there was very minimal gasket material in the oil pan filter...i am very impressed, especially as its been say for at least 4 of its 23 years idle in a damp garage.
i also attacked the gear shift lever with glacial acetic acid (the purified acid you find in vinegar) and took a wire brush to the rusted end of the drive shaft (where it screws onto the front sprocket), came up good
- oldskoolexup
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I'm glad you asked that question oldskool. I was telling roadrunner the other day about my bike. If I leave it stood for say two month or so and when I come to start it and put it in gear the bike shoots forward and stalls and yes the side stand is up. Is that a fault with the starter clutch being dry of oil?oldskoolexup wrote:Sounds gr8!
Have you got any photos of what you did with starter clutch etc?
Can someone explain to me (in simple mans talk) what the starter motor does exactly?
Bit of advice. Buy a good bed and a good pair of shoes, because if you aren't in one you'll be in the other.
- oldskoolexup
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I don't think so but I'll let one of the clever lads explain if it is/isn't and how it all works. Ask me about electronics/IT/electricary and basic stuff and I can prob manage though.......nuggitt wrote:Is that a fault with the starter clutch being short of oil?
Life begins at the end of your comfort zone,
Learn from the mistakes of others.............................
You can't live long enough to make them all yourself
&
Carpe Diem - seize the moment. Don't dream... Do!
Learn from the mistakes of others.............................
You can't live long enough to make them all yourself
&
Carpe Diem - seize the moment. Don't dream... Do!
ill try to explain it here, what it has is 3 metal cylinders around the edge. these can normally spin freely when the red bit (starter gear) turns counterclockwise. when you hit the starter motor button you turn that gear clockwise, this forces the metal cylinders to hit the springs (green) and roll up the ramp (yellow), this is what "locks" the starter motor only allowing it to turn in 1 direction.
pic 1 - no force applied clockwise
pic 2 as you hit the starter
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pic 1 - no force applied clockwise
pic 2 as you hit the starter
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