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phfzr
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2019 6:29 pm    Post subject: 1990 FZR 1000 starting fault/fuelling ? Reply with quote

Can anyone assist with a starting fault ?

I have a '90 3GM FZR1000

It starts fine on choke (fuel is low so reserve switch is selected), it will idle on choke and as soon as you crank the throttle, it dies
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phfzr
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2019 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should have added that the Exup solenoid does not appear to prime when ignition is powered.

I can hear the fuel pump priming though
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Teego
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2019 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the bike has been stood for a while I'd start by checking the air filter and empty the tank before refilling with Shell V-power.
Seems like you have a spark, so if this doesn't fix it I'd do a carb service.
Nuggit will probably along to help you do that.
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nuggitt
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Phil and welcome to the mad house. big grin

Teego seems to think I'm some carb guru. laugh laugh

They baffle the life out of me sometimes. It's just taken me four month to get my tick over sorted out.

Teego's got you started with draining the tank and checking to see if the air filter is cleanish . You say it's low on fuel and it's on reserve? Have you had a look inside the tank to see if there's any rust anywhere? When tanks are left empty for a while they start to rust then the flaky bits start to block the little filter inside the tank.

Get a torch/lamp and turn the torch/lamp on before you go near the opened filler cap. That's just a precaution because If you've got a dodgy torch/lamp and you turn the torch/lamp on at the filler cap and if there's a small spark then it could ignite the vapours. I've seen it happen. nod Then do the same when you take the torch/lamp away to turn it off.

Get some fresh fuel in the tank and if you can drain the float bowls with the drain screw plugs. They can be a pig to get to but if thereís any old fuel in there it wonít help matters. You say the pump primes up ok and does it stop after a while? When youíve got fresh fuel in turn the ignition on and let the pump prime up again and then drain the carb float bowls again and take it from there and see how it goes. If itís the same then the jets will probably be gummed up with crap which will mean a carb strip down and clean. You could get lucky. Iíve known bikes been stood for decades and they started up after a couple of tries. That was in the days before they started adding Ethanol to the petrol, that stuff ruins the rubber seals etc in the carbs but I have a cure for that, lets hope you donít need it.

Get back to us with what happens and weíll plod on with it and try and get you on the road before the summer disappears.
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phfzr
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for responses

I'm thinking is it the digital ignitor box, as it appears ignition. As soon as it sees throttle input, cuts dead. Do the bikes have a throttle switch ?

The cars were fully serviced about a Year ago, I know how the fuel can contaminate, but before I rip them off the bike, just thinking its some kind of electronic issue

Will the bike run/idle if the ignitor box fails ?
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pilninggas
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

phfzr wrote:
thanks for responses

I'm thinking is it the digital ignitor box, as it appears ignition. As soon as it sees throttle input, cuts dead. Do the bikes have a throttle switch ?

The cars were fully serviced about a Year ago, I know how the fuel can contaminate, but before I rip them off the bike, just thinking its some kind of electronic issue

Will the bike run/idle if the ignitor box fails ?


The FZR1000s dont have throttle switches or TPS so the ignitor cannot see throttle position.

id be surprised if the bike would run at all with a duff ignitor - it isnt a complex item by most ecu standards.

if the bike has been stood then it might be that orifices for idle jet have stayed clear but the orifices [float jet?] have gummed up hence why it idles but wont throttle.

If you think it is ignition then replace plugs first before you go more expensive/more complex - plugs dont like getting repeated rich mixtures on them that isnt cleared off by riding. start with the simple stuff, not the complicated.
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phfzr
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pilninggas wrote:
phfzr wrote:
thanks for responses

I'm thinking is it the digital ignitor box, as it appears ignition. As soon as it sees throttle input, cuts dead. Do the bikes have a throttle switch ?

The cars were fully serviced about a Year ago, I know how the fuel can contaminate, but before I rip them off the bike, just thinking its some kind of electronic issue

Will the bike run/idle if the ignitor box fails ?


The FZR1000s dont have throttle switches or TPS so the ignitor cannot see throttle position.

id be surprised if the bike would run at all with a duff ignitor - it isnt a complex item by most ecu standards.

if the bike has been stood then it might be that orifices for idle jet have stayed clear but the orifices [float jet?] have gummed up hence why it idles but wont throttle.

If you think it is ignition then replace plugs first before you go more expensive/more complex - plugs dont like getting repeated rich mixtures on them that isnt cleared off by riding. start with the simple stuff, not the complicated.


thats good information, guess I have to remove the carbs

will keep everyone updated, but will be a few weeks before I get to it
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Stig
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2019 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's been stood with fuel in the carbs I'd bet it's the pilot circuit that's blocked
When I used to leave mine stood over winter prior to using fuel stabilizer it wouldn't pick up on revs from tickover. I'd have to blip the hell out of it and it'd fart n back fire til the revs started to pick up. Few minutes later it would tick over ok but low down acceleration or a regular tickover was impossible
We cleaned the carbs to a full strip with the help of Nuggitt and Roadrunner and it was sorted 👍
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phfzr
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've removed the carbs - is there a recommended service in the UK for working through them carefully ?. I'm in Chester NW, if there is anyone local
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nuggitt
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itís a pity you donít live next door you could lob them over the fence. laugh
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phfzr
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nuggitt wrote:
Itís a pity you donít live next door you could lob them over the fence. laugh


laugh

Are there anything specific to look out for, or just strip, then Ultrasonic clean and re-assemble with new gaskets ?

Is there a good source for carb rebuild kits, or Yamaha best option ?

When stripping down, I observed a split in the fuel tank to filter hose. Its part number 3GM-24311-01, appears NLA. Can anyone help source ?

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nuggitt
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You donít really need to ultrasonic clean the carbs, thatís a job you could do in winter. Itís just a matter of a strip and clean and set the float height. Do one carb at a time and be methodical and keep everything from one carb in its own container. I use those plastic boxes you get from the Chinese takeaways, mark each box and mark each carb with a marker pen 1,2,3,4. You can buy the petrol pipe from CMS in Holland. Bear with me and Iíll get you the link and a link for a complete carb seal kit from Thailand which are far more superior than the yam ones. Iíll be back.
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phfzr
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nuggitt wrote:
You donít really need to ultrasonic clean the carbs, thatís a job you could do in winter. Itís just a matter of a strip and clean and set the float height. Do one carb at a time and be methodical and keep everything from one carb in its own container. I use those plastic boxes you get from the Chinese takeaways, mark each box and mark each carb with a marker pen 1,2,3,4. You can buy the petrol pipe from CMS in Holland. Bear with me and Iíll get you the link and a link for a complete carb seal kit from Thailand which are far more superior than the yam ones. Iíll be back.


sorry to say, CMS website quotes NLA for the fuel hose

thanks for heads-up on carb kits, I'll have a go myself
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nuggitt
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2019 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here you are phfzr.

I bought a full set in January this year and paid about £41ish. They also come with free postage and they don't take to long to arrive.

Litetek Carb seal kit.

I also ordered a set of float valves from here. Good quality items.

FLOAT VALVES

I'll help you out the best I can but it's always tricky tying to do things this way because I like to have hands on so to speak.

I've got a few tips for you as you go through the process. nod
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phfzr
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks nuggit - perfect

all parts ordered, so await their arrival !
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